Nothing has changed since June 1983, when we first experienced chef David Drake’s cuisine when he was the opening chef at the Frog & The Peach in New Brunswick. We loved his artistic flavorful food and use of quality ingredients then, as much as we do now. He is still one of New Jersey’s most talented chefs.
We were invited to a press dinner that started at Light Horse Tavern and then proceeded to the newly opened Greene HookGreene Hook, both in Jersey City. Chef Drake oversees the kitchen in both restaurants.
Water served with a plate of sliced lemons and limes and warm, house made pretzel-style bread with herb butter flavored with garlic, parsley, chives and scallions, were our first indications that the restaurant paid attention to details. Starters were salmon tartare with sesame, shishito peppers, cilantro emulsion and lime served with rice crackers, followed by outstanding steamed mussels with a smoky broth made from chorizo, tomatoes, Brooklyn Lager, scallions and cilantro. It was one of the best mussel dishes that we have had in a long time. The mussels were but one of the many dishes that we tried that exemplified chef’s Drake striking flavor combinations. Ethereal pan-seared Parmesan gnocchi were tossed with chanterelle mushrooms along with cauliflower and arugula; a dynamic dish. Leeks, roasted portobello and al dente yellow beets, along with a warm balsamic and garlic vinaigrette added interest and flavor to an oven-roasted mahi mahi.
The menu offers a raw bar, appetizers and entrees and there are weekly specials at Light Horse: Monday: lobster risotto; Tuesday: hazelnut-crusted brook trout; Wednesday: 28-day aged prime steak; Thursday: salt-roasted prime rib; Friday: roasted black bass; and Saturday: braised Guinness short ribs. Tavern classics include baked meatloaf, crispy cod & chips and a burger. There are also more than 100 beers offered, plus cocktails and wine.
The décor at Light Horse Tavern is stunning with 18-foot ceilings, a long mahogany bar and historic photos of Jersey City. The crowd ran the gamut from young professionals to families with strollers. Open daily for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday from 11:30 AM and from 10:30 AM on Saturday and Sunday.
Light Horse Bar
Parmesan gnocchi with chanterelle mushrooms, cauliflower and arugula.
GREENE HOOK BAR + KITCHEN
From the Light Horse Tavern we walked a block to continue our dinner at Greene Hook, which seats about 28 at the bar and 100 in the dining room. Glass windows open up to a patio, which seats about 80, with views of Manhattan and the Freedom Tower.
The room has both an industrial and rustic look with floors made of reclaimed wood, a pressed tin ceiling and handmade wooden tables. Shuffleboard is available and game surface can be retrofitted with a top to create a communal table. If interested, ask your server about the shuffleboard league that meets on Sundays at 7 PM and Tuesdays at 9 PM.
A raw bar is also offered, as well as appetizers, mains, burgers, sandwiches and one of their most popular items, a bucket of fried chicken with mac n’ cheese and jalapeno biscuits. Along with specialty cocktails and wine, there are more than 40 craft beers and Happy Hour is celebrated at the bar Monday through Friday from 4 to 6 PM.
Starters were a creative presentation of fluke crudo with shredded green papaya and hot and citrusy yuzu koshu crème fraiche. Small bits of citrus tempura—which reminded us of Rice Krispies—added texture to the dish. A colorful, highly recommended crispy boneless chicken and stuffed chicken thigh accompanied by maple, sweet-potato puree, shredded Brussels sprouts, bacon and pomegranate seeds, was followed by a tender flat-iron steak which sat on top of pureed cauliflower and was surrounded by carrots, Brussels sprouts, cippolini onions and a milk stout reduction. An evening special of perfectly caramelized sweet, dry day-boat scallops had salsify, yellow-roasted beets, apricots, maitake mushrooms and a crushed-almond puree as a supporting cast. This was a memorable and well thought out dish.
Four desserts, all made by chef Drake, were brought to the table, and we started playing dish roulette by tasting each and reluctantly passing them on. All were terrific so make sure you order at least one.
A bitter chocolate sauce served as the base for a dark chocolate flourless torte topped with a scoop of whipped cream and paired with huge blackberries and raspberries. Hazelnut semifreddo was paired with poached figs, hazelnut praline and an orange-fig reduction. My favorite, which was as delicious as it looked, was lemon meringue served in a small jar layered with huckleberry compote, ladyfingers, lemon curd and Italian meringue. We also oohed and ahhed at the unconventional crème brulee with chocolate ganache, vanilla custard and burnt caramel foam topping which was artistically offered in a glass.
Two restaurants, one executive chef and one chef du cuisine, Joe Beninato, previously of Ursino in Union, added up to an exciting evening. Kudos to both, as well as owner Bill Gray, who has two top-notch restaurants in my hometown.
Fluke crudo with shredded green papaya and yuzu koshu crème fraiche.
Stuffed chicken thigh with maple, sweet-potato puree, shredded Brussels sprouts, bacon and pomegranate seed.
Flourless chocolate cake, crème brulee, hazelnut semifreddo and lemon meringue.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
Light Horse Tavern
199 Washington Street
Jersey City
201-946-2028 |
Greene Hook Bar + Kitchen
70 Greene Street
Jersey City
201-360-3276
Please send press releases and restaurant news, including information on staff changes, wine tastings, and cooking classes, to [email protected].