SEAR HOUSE GRILL, LITTLE FALLS
When we entered the restaurant rather than being led to a table, we were told to sit wherever we wanted. It was also a “you-z guys” night with the waiter saying “Hey guys” and “Is it only you-z guys?” and calling us “guy-z” all evening. The table was set without a napkin—we had to ask for one.
There have been many restaurants at 1 Newark Pompton Turnpike in Little Falls. Bellissimo’s, a neighborhood favorite closed in August of 2007. In January 2008, South City Prime opened but closed in January 2009. In the same month, diners found Fire & Oak in this space, which then closed in December 2009. The restaurant remained vacant until October 2012, when a full circle was completed with the reopening of Bellissimo’s. It closed around December 2014. In the same month, Sear House Grill was opened by the owners of Sear House in Closter.
Lowell opted for the very reasonably priced $28 three-course, prix-fixe menu, with choices, that is offered Sunday through Thursday from 4 to 10 PM and Friday and Saturday before 6:30 PM. Portions were generous, and we found the quality of the food was exceeding good. His large bowl of lobster bisque had flecks of lobster meat and his entrée of juicy, grilled salmon with peppers, leeks, glazed beets and horseradish cream was perfectly cooked and could not have possibly been any better. Only three desserts were offered on the fixed price menu: chocolate mousse, sorbet and tiramisu. Opting for tiramisu, we were disappointed in its lack of creaminess and flavor.
My eyes went right to the meat section of the menu, where it is stated that the restaurant serves 28-day, house dry-aged, USDA prime beef. I ordered the double-cut loin veal chop, which was presented on a sizzling platter. The charred meat was tender and delicate and served with strips of carrots, broccoli florets and yellow and green squash making for an exceptional dish created with quality ingredients. My appetizer, which could easily have been shared, was a chopped vegetable salad served on a cold plate containing diced avocado, artichoke hearts, asparagus, hearts of palm, baby greens, beets, carrots, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, lemon and olive oil drizzled with balsamic dressing. Between the salad and the addictive tall and crunchy bread sticks, I was unable to finish the meat and savored it the next day at lunch.
The wine by the glass was a generous pour and while Lowell’s cabernet sauvignon tasted like a cab, my pinot noir neither looked nor tasted like this light-colored, subtle tasting wine. We were never asked if we wanted coffee, but were presented with four small biscotti before our bill.
While Sear House Grill may sound like a steak house, there are many Italian dishes on the menu such as grilled eggplant rollatini, baked clams, fried calamari, pastas, chicken parmigiana, veal picata.
Double-cut loin veal chop
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
Sear House Grill
1 Newark Pompton Turnpike
Little Falls
973-785-4225
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