When we saw that rabbit—a favorite of the Safersteins—was on the menu at Turtle + The Wolf in Upper Montclair, we immediately made plans to visit this newly opened restaurant. This seldom-seen menu offering, as well as a few other knock-your-socks-off dishes, will bring us back to Turtle + The Wolf, which is named after the clan symbols of the Lenape Indians who lived in the area.
Under the direction of executive chef/co-owner Lauren Hirschberg and co-owner Matt Trevenen, the restaurant offers simple, local and seasonal dishes. (We dined here a few days after they opened, so the items we ate may have changed based on the available seasonal ingredients.) Hirschberg received a degree from Syracuse University in hospitality and food service management, and studied at the French Culinary Institute. He worked for Tom Colicchio at Craft restaurant and was promoted in 2012 to executive chef. In 2014 he was again promoted to director of culinary operations for Craft restaurants. Trevenen has a degree from Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration.
Starters were marinated mushrooms served cold with crema fraiche and paprika oil; butter lettuce with a shallot vinaigrette, radishes and croutons; roasted clams with herb butter and bread crumbs and the two favorites of the table: an unusual combination of autumn squash with creamy buratta sweetened with Acacia honey and candied walnuts; and smooth chicken liver on toast with Amerena cherries and pickled onion. Entrees were equally delicious. Rich agnolotti were made with ethereal pieces of flat pasta stuffed with an ample portion of sweet potatoes coated with a brown butter and sage sauce.
Another highlight was the rabbit, which we urge you to try if you are a fan of this protein. A braised thigh and leg as well as a tender roulade stuffed with rabbit liver and spinach and wrapped with pig’s caul fat was perfectly cooked and better than any version we had in Italy. A fine polenta added creamy texture to this comfort food. Country bread provided a perfect sponge for dipping into a distinctive, spicy, tomato-based fish sauce in a stew with fennel, shrimp, mussels and cod. Crispy skin trout had fingerling potatoes, spinach and a lemon sauce as supporting ingredients.
For dessert, we shared the flourless chocolate cake with cranberries and a scoop of whipped cream and fried apple fritters. It was a most delicious evening. Turtle + the Wolf is a welcome addition to the New Jersey dining scene.
Turtle + the Wolf
622 Valley Road
Upper Montclair
973-783-9800
BYO
Fish stew.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
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