Gastropubs

Never heard of a “gastropub?”

The term is foodie language for a pub with very good food, originating in Britain and later popularized in New York City by the Spotted Pig.

It might seem contradictory to put gourmet fare into a British-style pub, where culinary ambition never extended much beyond the venerable bangers and mash. But to Bradley and Laurie Boyle of Byram, it seems like a great idea.

The husband and wife team recently opened Salt Gastropub in their Sussex County hometown, to provide discerning diners with serious food in a casual atmosphere. The Boyles overhauled a local bar on busy Route 206 to create this inventive mingling of downtown chic and biker hip.  

The Boyles, former owners of the acclaimed Bula in Newton, wanted to design a casual place where families were welcome, but with a menu to match the vast array of wines and beers they stock behind the bar.

We liked the hanger steak with cracked mustard smashed potatoes, the goat cheese croquettes, and organic locally grown green beans. Young waiters and waitresses in black tee shirts tried hard to please. The prices are reasonable; more than tavern fare but less than fancy eateries. 

The Boyles claim to have the first gastropub in northern New Jersey, but our search turned up at least one other that claimed to be: Egan and Sons in Montclair. We’re certain there are more — in fact you probably have a favorite neighborhood tavern that qualifies… sort of. 

But like many things in life, it is the label that makes a difference. “Gastropub” has a certain je ne sais quoi… and it definitely raises the bar.

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