Don't Hate Me Because I'm a Merlot

I have always told my children that hate is a useless emotion. Frankly, I am far too lazy for the effort it requires—an effort that is especially wasted when directed at a bottle of wine.

Yet, “I hate Merlot” is a remark I have heard on numerous occasions at the wine shop. It is usually uttered with a sort of “wink, wink, nudge, nudge” meant to imply that the person delivering the remark is “in the know” about wine. As soon as I hear it, I grow suspicious.

Like the supermodel in that old Pantene commercial asking us not to hate her because she’s beautiful, Merlot is a wine that everyone could love if they would just take the time to get to know it. It may not happen overnight.

The best examples of Merlot are a beautiful, deep purple color with luscious blackberry and plum fruit flavors, velvety tannins, and a rich, full body. Merlot can also be a sort of vinous best friend; always available to lend a gentle hand by adding balance to blends with other varietals. In this role, it often gets no credit, hiding in the background of that bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon.

I admit that there are poor examples of Merlot that are easy drinking, one-dimensional, and not at all the sort of dinner companion you would care to spend an evening with. But I propose that we all march over to our local wine shops and ask them to point us to the Merlot that will stimulate the palate as well as the intellect.

Your local wine shop should be able to help you choose a Merlot that is suited to your particular palate. Here are some basics to keep in mind:

• Merlot’s classic home is the Bordeaux region of France where it is blended with other varietals. In the “New World,” the major players are California, Washington State, South Africa, Australia, and South America.

• Many New World Merlots tend to be more fruit forward in style while Old World Merlots can express more earthiness and nuanced characteristics.

• Look for sub-regions on the label and ask your local wine merchant to tell you about particular producers and in Bordeaux, specific chateaus.

• Quality is likely to increase, the more specific the region on the label. Watch for names like Napa Valley (more general), Howell Mountain (more specific), Bordeaux (more general), and Saint-Emilion and Pomerol (more specific).

• Don’t be afraid to try a Merlot from areas that normally don’t leap to mind, such as Italy’s Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region or even Romania, Bulgaria, and Hungary. Who knows? You might find something you love that is a great bargain too!

Tags: merlot | Cabernet Sauvignon | Bordeaux