An American Saké

A few months ago I wrote a series of posts about saké—the Japanese brewed beverage that is sometimes erroneously called rice wine. Shortly thereafter I received a care package from Saké One, an importer that also brews a range of ginjo grade sakés in the United States.

I recently tasted (and very much enjoyed) one of these American brews—the Momokawa Silver Tanrei Junmai Ginjo Saké, when our good friend and gastronome, Rick, invited us for a home-cooked version of the hanger steak Ssäm with roasted onions and ginger scallion sauce from David Chang’s “Momofuku” cookbook.

This particular bottle of saké has a back label offering pairing suggestions in three categories: seafood, sushi, and grilled meats. A tasting note calls the saké aromatic, crisp, and dry with green apples and mineral notes—a description I might have agreed with had it been written for a bottle of Chablis.

My own note was more about melons, ripe fruit, and a nice roundness to the palate that finished dry with a slight hint of anise. Each sip was a pretty big and delicious mouthful that went perfectly with the spicy Asian flavors on the table.

Saké One’s American sakémaster, Greg Lorenz, has a background in organic chemistry that probably comes in handy for growing the microorganisms—special yeast strains and koji mold—that are an integral part of the multiple parallel fermentation process used in saké brewing.

Lorenz apprenticed in Japan with a master toji (brewer) before bringing his expertise to Oregon where he makes a range of traditional bottlings under the Momokawa label as well as the bolder style G-Genshu, undiluted saké.

Then there is the Moonstone range of natural fruit-flavor-infused sakés, which I have yet to try but that perhaps add a distinctly American twist to this ancient Japanese beverage.

Tags: sake