A Visit to Balthazar Bakery

Whenever I am in Englewood, or just passing by on Route 4, if I can steal a few moments I try to stop at Balthazar on South Dean Street. There you will find both retail shop and the facility (visible through the glass walls of the retail shop) where all their superlative breads, breakfast pastries, and desserts are baked.

First picture: Exhibit A has to be Balthazar's signature pain de seigle, examples of which are displayed in the shop window.

This flagship bread is baked in wheels of various sizes. To my mind the bigger the better, partly because the big wheels look so spectacular but also because large loaves stay moister longer than little ones.

The Balthazar style is dark and crusty. This is especially well presented in the big pain de seigle, with the script letter B reverse stencilled in white flour. The bread is made with yeast starter mixed with wheat, whole wheat and whole rye flours, plus beer, water, and salt. That's it.

Looking as formidable inside and out as it does, you might expect it to be heavy and even a chore to chew. Not so.

It is rich and moist with a splendid crust-lover's crust. The flavor is somewhere between regular rye bread and pumpernickel, but more complex and satisfying than either.

In the second picture, you see one of Balthazar's bakers hand shaping a loaf of pain de seigle. In the background walks Balthazar's chief baker, Paula Oland.

In the third picture, a rack of loaves stand ready for the 500-degree F oven. They come out looking like the ones in the window.

Tomorrow: More pictures of Balthazar breads and pastries being made. Plus tidbits of Balthazar news from chief baker Oland.

Tags: Englewood | Bread | Balthazar Bakery | photography | bakeries

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