Masskrugstemmen translates as "beer-stein holding." It is an Oktoberfest tradition, not only in Bavaria, where Oktoberfest began 200 years ago, but wherever Oktoberfest is celebrated. Like, for instance, at the Pilsener Haus Biergarten and restaurant in Hoboken.
It is, in short, a beer-stein-holding contest, and a stern test of endurance.
Each contestant purchases a full liter of beer in a glass mug. It weighs about five pounds.
That may not sound like much, but try holding it straight out in front of you, arm fully extended and parallel to the floor. And then keep holding it like that as long as you can. If your arm sags, or your elbow bends, or the beer sloshes, you’re done, kaput.
Last arm up wins.
The world record for beer-stein holding, according to the website beer-universe.com, is 19 minutes, "Newcomers to the contest will be lucky to put up 6 minutes," the site observes.
At Pilsener Haus, Masskrugstemmen contests (with prizes) will be held each week. The last week of Oktoberfest, the winners will be invited back to compete for a grand prize.
PHOTOS: At Pilsener Haus in Hoboken (from top), the main hall, the outdoor biergarten and the traditional German pretzel.
The Pilsener Haus festivities have already begun and will continue for about a month. In addition to the regular selection of more than 70 imported and American craft beers, Pilsener Haus will tap kegs of five seasonal Oktoberfest beers–Hacker-Pschorr, Spaten, and Hofbrau, as well Ramstein, brewed by High Point Brewing Company in Butler, and Paulaner Oktoberfest Weisn, which Pilsener Haus says is exclusive to them on the East Coast.
Pilsener Haus occupies the ground floor of a converted 1920’s brick factory building. The atmosphere is echt Bavarian, or at any rate convincingly retro industrial. with huge lantern-lit indoor halls framed by aged brick and thick wooden beams, and an outdoor walled ‘garten.’ Both spaces are outfitted with long rustic wooden tables and benches for the communal lifting of frosty lager-filled steins.
If feats of strength aren’t your thing, Oktoberfest at PH will also include high-energy polka performances by Grammy-nominated Alex Meixner, and the ‘Electric Oom-Pah’ of the Benjamin Ickies Trio. The closing event on October 20 will feature crazy fun with the banjo, tuba, trumpet and trombone of The Incredible Bavarian Fraternal & Marching Society.
PH’s Viennese chef, Thomas Ferlesch, will be grilling pounds and pounds of wursts, chops and schnitzels, and every Friday’s menu will include a roast suckling pig.
“Our Pilsener Haus menu is very traditional," says Ferlesch. “It’s the kind of biergarten cuisine I’ve known since childhood.”
One such classic he learned from his mother as a boy is Schweinhaxen, or pork shank.
“It’s the kind of hearty fare that pairs well with the amber, malty, more full-bodied Oktoberfest beers we are pouring here," he says.
Also popular are the oversized salted pretzels served with spicy Liptauer cheese and homemade mustard; spätzle noodles with cheese, caramelized onion and bacon; and Kipferl Koch brioche pudding with lemon zest, vanilla and plum compote that Ferlesch says "tastes like the Old Country."
Pilsener Haus is far from the only place in New Jersey to celebrate Oktoberfest. For a comprehensive list, visit funtober.com/oktoberfest/newjersey, which includes the following:
Chester Lions Club Oktoberfest – 9/29-9/30, Chester – The 14th annual fundraising event features smoked pork chops, German potato salad, sauerkraut and beehive cake along with an antique car show. Chesterlionsclubnj.com/oktoberfest
27th Annual Crystal Springs Oktoberfest – 9/22-23, Vernon – This year’s festivities will be held at the new Red Tail Lodge and will include expanded food and beer menus, as well as six bands and traditional dancing. crystalgolfresort.com
Dumont Oktoberfest – 10/6, Dumont – There will be rides, vendors, food, live music and even some early trick-or-treating at this street fair. Facebook.com/Dumont Streetfair
Forest Lodge Oktoberfest 2012 – 10/6, Warren – Visitors will enjoy German beer, food and fun, including dancing to the orchestra and rides for the kids. forestlodgecatering.com
Our Lady of the Lake Oktoberfest – 10/13, Verona – This third annual event will include a free ‘kinderfest’ in addition to music, beer, wine, food and a raffle. ollverona.org/oktoberfest
SUZANNE ZIMMER LOWERY is a food writer, pastry chef and culinary instructor at a number of New Jersey cooking schools. Find out more about her at suzannelowery.com.