NISI ESTIATORIO, ENGLEWOOD
We were transported to Greece upon entering the newly opened Nisi Estiatorio (“estiatorio” is Greek for restaurant) at 90 Grand Avenue, Englewood. Although we didn’t have ambrosia or drink nectar, we felt like a Greek god and goddess after dining here.
The sapphire blue bar, plush leather banquettes, tranquil indoor waterfall, and glass-walled wine cellar all add to the ambiance. Images of the ocean and the Greek Isles are conjured up, with an undulating wall resembling waves and a rounded blue ceiling further suggesting the sea. But all this decor would be meaningless if the food wasn’t stellar. And stellar it was, from the mezedes (small plates) to the desserts that we tasted. To put the icing on the cake, or the honey on the baklava, executive chef/partner John Piliouras, formerly of Manhattan’s Molyvos, has a passion for his craft that is demonstrated by the excellence of his food.
Start with some mezedes, such as: pikilia, containing a sampling of tzatziki, a rich Greek yogurt with cucumber, garlic, and herbs; taramosalata, a carp roe mousse with ground almonds, lemon, and olive oil; and melintzanosalata, a fire-roasted chopped eggplant spread. Go easy on the bread and pita, as there are other wonderful appetizers to sample. You’ll want to try the keftedes (mini ground lamb/beef meatballs) served with an apricot dip, and the melt-in-your-mouth ktenia kataifi, which is a sea scallop wrapped in pastourma (a highly seasoned, air-dried cured beef) and kataifi (shredded phyllo dough) and served with a kalamata vinegar reduction. And don’t miss the ouzo-cured salmon, which I could have finished all by myself. If you like a pasta course, try the wild shrimp in a spicy ouzo/tomato sauce with orzo pasta, which is a delicious dish to share.
Feel free to walk up to the gorgeous fish display and pick out your dinner. Some options may be black sea bass, lavraki, pompano, royal dorado, garides (prawns) Dover sole, sardines, and American red snapper. The fish are grilled and served with a delicate sauce of lemon juice, Dijon mustard, saffron, Greek oregano, and organic Greek olive oil that would make Poseidon proud. Fish can be served whole or deboned, and you pay by the pound. We loved the side of horta, a mixture of steamed dandelion greens, mustard greens, escarole, and Swiss chard.
Carnivores are not forgotten, as there is chicken, moussaka, lamb chops, rib veal chops, and certified Angus 21-day-aged bone-in rib eye. The steak and veal is sourced from DeBragga and Spitler, a NYC company with a reputation for excellent top-quality meats.
Yes, you want to have dessert. A beautifully composed and delicious karidopita, an olive oil walnut cake with orange marmalade and whipped vanilla yogurt, was enjoyed by all, as was a refreshingly different version of baklava made with almonds, white chocolate, and almond cream. And certainly yogurt lovers can feast on the Greek yogurt served with quince preserves and chopped walnuts, a classic dessert. My favorite, however, was the dark chocolate bar with dried fruit, pistachios, and Metaxa brandy, which I could inhale on a daily basis.
Kudos to wine director Sterling Roig, who has a large selection of Greek wines, an often overlooked area of the world in NJ wine stores and restaurants, as well as selections from Italy, France, and the USA. Ouzo, some infused in house with a variety of flavorings, is also available.
General manager and partner Michael Liristis oversees the dining room and bar lounge, as well as a separate secluded party room below the main dining level, which has its own separate entrance.
Nisi Estiatorio is open for lunch Mondays through Saturdays from noon to 3 PM, for dinner Mondays through Saturdays from 5 to 11 PM, and on Sundays from noon to 8 PM. For reservations call 201-567-4700.
Fish display at Nisi, Englewood.
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PARK AVENUE CLUB, FLORHAM PARK
The Park Avenue Club, 184 Park Avenue, Florham Park, started out as a dairy barn in 1894 and was used by a local order of nuns known as the Sisters of Charity. Today it is a unique private dining club made up of individual and corporate members that donates one hundred percent of its profits to the following eleven local charities: Boys and Girls Clubs of Newark, the Community FoodBank of New Jersey, the Burgdorff Foundation, the Jersey Battered Women’s Service, the Morris Habitat for Humanity, the Morris Museum, the New Jersey Youth Symphony, the Patriots’ Path Council (Boy Scouts of America), the P.G. Chambers School, Share Our Strength, and Special Olympics New Jersey.
Executive chef Arnold Kruck oversees the dining rooms and offers contemporary American cuisine with attention to seasonal ingredients. Signature dishes include: warm panzanella salad with wild mushrooms, baby spinach, roasted salisfy, and Humboldt Fog cheese; braised beef short ribs with acorn squash and crispy parsnip threads; house-made spinach and cheese agnolotti with roasted butternut squash and Parmigiano-Reggiano; balsamic-glazed salmon with caponata, Israeli couscous, and lemon basil butter; and NY sirloin steak with roast garlic whipped potatoes and carrots. The spring menu will feature American lamb, veal, free-range chicken, sea scallops, halibut, trout, and ahi tuna. The Old World and New World wine list, at all price points, and the specialty cocktails are overseen by Wendy Tait.
There are ten private dining rooms on three floors, each with a distinct decor, that can accommodate 2 to 400 people for social functions, weddings, or business meetings. Club members also enjoy special events such as business seminars, themed dinners, and wine tastings. Limited membership for one year may be obtained for under $1,000, of which a significant portion is applied to food and beverage at the restaurant. The Park Avenue Club is also open to the public for a $400 one-night membership fee, which is applied to the food. To inquire, call the club at 973-301-8233 and ask for the membership department.
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SOUTHERN FOOD DINNER AT THE PLUCKEMIN INN
On March 20, a Regional America: Southern Food Dinner, with wines paired with each course, will be held in a private room at the Pluckemin Inn, 359 Route 202/206 and Pluckemin Way, Bedminster. The evening starts at 7:30 PM with butler-passed hors d’oeuvres. Guests will have the choice of a themed cocktail or a glass of champagne; $100 plus tax and gratuity. You may book the entire table with a party of twelve or join the table as a single diner, a couple, or more. For reservations call 908-658-9292.
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RED NAPA WINE TASTING CLASS
On March 13, a Hunt for Red Napa wine tasting class with artisanal cheeses, rustic breads, and six wines will be held at Napa Valley Grille, Garden State Plaza, Paramus. 7 to 8:30 PM; $60 all inclusive. For reservations call 201-845-5555.
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DINE OUT FOR A CAUSE
On March 19, the Olde Mill Inn, 225 Route 202, Basking Ridge, will be preparing a five-course meal accompanied with wine to benefit the Community FoodBank of New Jersey. 6 to 7 PM complimentary hors d’oeuvres and cash bar; 7 PM dinner with wine pairings. To make your reservation call 908-591-4138 or e-mail [email protected]. For the menu and more visit www.tastingnewjersey.org.
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ROSA MEXICANO, HACKENSACK
One Pot Meals are being featured at Rosa Mexicano, Shops at Riverside, 390 Hackensack Avenue, Hackensack. On March 11, there will be a One Pot Dinner Party; on March 14, the chef will demonstrate One Pot Meals at a cooking class; and One Pot Meals will be offered on the menu through March 29. Some new menu additions are: pork shoulder and oyster mushrooms stewed in yellow mole with Serrano chilies, onions, and lime; Yucatecan pot au feu with braised short rib, pork shoulder, and chicken with vegetables, habanero sauce, and tortillas de maize; and stewed winter fruits tossed with toasted streusel and topped with vanilla ice cream. For time and price information and reservations call 201-489-9100.
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NJ SEMIFINALISTS FOR JAMES BEARD AWARDS
NJ restaurants have made a very impressive showing in the 2009 semifinalists for the James Beard Foundation awards that will be announced on May 3 and 4 in New York City. The following have been nominated.
Outstanding Wine Service: Park & Orchard, East Rutherford
Best Mid-Atlantic Chef: Steven Cameron, Blue, Surf City; Andrea Carbine, A Toute Heure, Cranford; Maricel Presilla, Cucharamama, Hoboken; Jim Romanowski, Bay Avenue Trattoria, Highlands
Best New Restaurant: Izakaya at the Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa, Atlantic City
Outstanding Pastry Chef: Marie Jackson, the Flaky Tart, Atlantic Highlands
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SAVE THE DATE
On April 29, a Dishes for Wishes competition among twenty South Jersey restaurants to benefit Make-A-Wish of NJ will be held at the Falls at Doubletree Guest Suites, Mount Laurel. 6:30 to 10 PM; $75 in advance; $85 at the door. For tickets call 908-964-5055.
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DINING DEALS
On Sundays from 1 to 4 PM, a three-course prix-fixe dinner with coffee or tea for $22.95 plus tax and service is offered at Berta’s Chateau, 7 Grove Street, Wanaque. The menu will change weekly. For reservations call 973-835-0992.
Gladstone Tavern, 273 Main Street, Gladstone, is now offering a special Sunday dinner with choices from 5 to 9 PM; $20; children ages ten and under $10. For more information and reservations call 908-234-9055.
On Fridays through March 27, the Mad Batter, 19 Jackson Street, Cape May, is offering a second dinner entrée at half price when you buy one entrée. For reservations call 609-884-5970.
Tuesday is Homemade Gnocchi Night at Mirabella Cafe, Barclay Farms Shopping Center, 210 East Route 70, Cherry Hill, with nine different preparations of homemade gnocchi for $9.95 each; BYO. For reservations call 856-354-1888.
P.F. Chang’s restaurants nationwide are offering a four-course For Two menu, which includes two soups, one starter, two entrées, and two mini desserts for $39.95. There are locations in Atlantic City, Freehold, Hackensack, Marlton, Princeton, and West New York. For more information log on to www.pfchangs.com.
Spanish Pavillion, 31 Harrison Avenue, Harrison, is now offering $7.95 lunch specials Mondays through Fridays. Phone: 973-485-7750.
Tuesdays through Fridays from 4 to 7 PM through April 3, Theater Square Bistro, 1 Center Street, Newark (located inside NJPAC), has a happy hour, with all drinks, including beer and wine, at half price. For dinner reservations call 973-642-1226.
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