Restaurant News

This week Rosie tells us about Chef Bill Dorrler of Due Mari Pesce e Vinoteca in New Brunswick and Due Terre Enoteca in Bernardsville; Nisi Estiatorio in Englewood; Hudson Restaurant Week; and much more news about NJ dining.

CHEF BILL DORRLER AT THE BEARD HOUSE

On August 5, a dinner will be held at the James Beard House, 167 West 12th Street, New York City, with executive chef Bill Dorrler of Due Mari Pesce e Vinoteca, New Brunswick, and Due Terre Enoteca, Bernardsville. The following menu will be presented.

Hors d’oeuvres: tomatoes with buffalo mozzarella and baby basil; ceci bean crostini with grilled octopus; cuttlefish tagliatelle; and corn crema with Maryland crab
(2007 Borgo Conventi Sauvignon Blanc)

Maine-lobster–stuffed squid with slow-cooked tomatoes and relish
(2008 Borgo Conventi Friulano)

Handmade macaroni with clams, mussels, and shrimp
(2007 Borgo Conventi Sauvignon Blanc)

Seared day-boat scallops with rice salad and lemon oil
(2006 Ruffino La Solatia Chardonnay)

Grilled rack of lamb with peach panzanella and vin santo
(2006 Ruffino Modus)

Blueberry semifreddo with lemon cream
(2004 Ruffino Serelle Vin Santo del Chianti)

7 PM; $125; James Beard Foundation members $100. Call 212-627-2308 for reservations.



Executive Chef Bill Dorrler.

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NISI ESTIATORIO, ENGLEWOOD

Do you have a special dish that you order if you see it on a restaurant menu? For Lowell it’s fresh sardines, as it is so unusual to see these extremely flavorful little fish being offered. (Certainly let me know when you find them in an NJ restaurant.) I don’t like sardines. Well, I never liked them until I had them grilled by executive chef/partner John Piliouras at Nisi Estiatorio (“restaurant” in Greek), 90 Grand Avenue, Englewood. They were plump, charred, and simply delicious served with olive oil and lemon. Surprisingly, the bones weren’t a problem, as it was easy to cut off the head, butterfly the fish, and remove the spine. The waiter will do this if you prefer.

Actually, Lowell hit a home run at Nisi because his other favorite item, rabbit, was offered as a special, presented almost whole with the saddle (no tail or head, thank you). The mild meat does taste like chicken. Served as a country stew, the sauce, made from rabbit stock, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mavrodaphne (a sweet dessert wine similar to port), tomato, cinnamon, clove, allspice, and bay leaves, had a sweet-and-sour profile. The accompanying stewed onions and three-cheese mashed potatoes made this a hearty dish, which was just as satisfying in the early summer as it would be in the fall.

We also shared keftedes, an appetizer of mini meatballs of house-ground lamb, beef, and trahana (cracked wheat), served with a yogurt, garlic, and apricot dip. Bet you can’t have just one. My entrée was garides, sweet ocean-caught prawns that are sold by the pound. All of this was washed down with a crisp, light 2008 Assyrtiko, Gai’a “Thalassitis,” from Santorini, Greece.

Dessert also delivers. Do try the rich Greek yogurt with strawberry preserves served on a blue plate—a most colorful presentation. Not to be missed either is the Nisi Sokofreta, a dark chocolate bar with dried fruit, hazelnuts, and Metaxa brandy. And if you like your coffee dark, strong, and muddy, then go Greek.

This stunning restaurant, which received three stars from Karen Tina Harrison in NJ Monthly’s May 2009 issue and an Excellent rating from David Corcoran in the New York Times on June 28, 2009, should be tried. The attentive waiters, lovely ambiance (be sure to check out the fresh fish display before you order), and perfectly prepared food make this place a winner. Nisi Estiatorio is open for lunch Monday through Saturday from noon to 4 PM and dinner daily from 5 PM and Sundays from noon. For reservations call 201-567-4700.

Grilled sardines at Nisi Estiatorio, Englewood.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.

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NEW SUMMER MENU AT CHAKRA, PARAMUS

Chakra, 44 West Route 4 (eastbound), Paramus, has introduced a new summer menu featuring seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. Some items offered by executive chef Nelson Martinez are: crispy veal sweetbreads with lentils, candied kumquats, and pickled watermelon radish; Vietnamese cured salmon with crème fraîche and pickled turnips; warm asparagus salad with applewood-smoked bacon, poached egg, and lemon sabayon; honey-scented duck breast with lemon couscous, celery root flan, baby bok choy, and red grape chutney; and American red snapper with green papaya salsa and tomato fondue. Chakra also offers a three-course prix-fixe sunset dinner menu Monday through Friday from 5 to 7 PM for $20.09. The menu, which changes weekly, offers an array of appetizers, entrées, and desserts. The sunset dinner menu also includes wine-by-the-glass recommendations available for $5. For reservations call 201-556-1530.

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THE WINE BAR, ATLANTIC HIGHLANDS

The Wine Bar, 40 First Avenue, Atlantic Highlands, has reopened after extensive renovations. This full-service bar/lounge features more than 120 labels and 24 wines by the glass, with flight options of two-, four-, and six-ounce pours. Bottles of wine are priced at $26 and up. Specialty martinis and traditional drinks are also available. Items on the Mediterranean-influenced menu include: grilled fresh calamari with grape tomatoes, French string beans, grilled red onions, chickpeas, red wine vinegar, and virgin olive oil; roasted beet and fennel salad with ricotta salata, orange segments, shaved red onions, and white balsamic vinaigrette; sautéed jumbo gulf shrimp with whole-wheat penne, fresh plum tomatoes, garlic, Pinot Grigio, and basil; and sliced cracked-pepper grilled Black Angus sirloin with arugula, hydroponic tomatoes, red onions, and shaved Parmesan. “To be shared” and dessert menus are available as well. For reservations call 732-291-1377.

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HUDSON RESTAURANT WEEK

From July 27 to August 7, Hudson Restaurant Week returns for its fifth summer, with 36 participating restaurants. Partakers include: 3Forty Grill, Amanda’s, City Bistro, Edward’s Steakhouse, Fire & Oak at the Westin, Light Horse Tavern, South City Grill, and Zylo at the W Hotel. Prix-fixe menus for lunch start at $10, dinners at $20, plus tip, tax, and drinks. For detailed information and menus log on to www.hudsonrestaurantweek.com.

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ATLANTIC CITY FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

See the food stars Emeril Lagasse, Guy Fieri, Duff Goldman (Ace of Cakes), Tom Colicchio, and Ted Allen at the Atlantic City Food & Wine Festival at Bally’s Casino, Atlantic City, from July 30 to August 2. This four-day event features tastings and seminars; the cost runs from $30 to $1,000. For more information and reservations call 609-398-4450.

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RESTAURANT NICHOLAS

Summer menus are now available at Restaurant Nicholas, 160 Route 35 South, Middletown. New items include roasted sweet corn soup, and butter-poached Nova Scotia Lobster with caramelized watermelon, grilled scallions, and almond foam. Available are a three-course menu ($59), a six-course tasting menu ($79), and a four-course garden menu ($59). For more information and reservations call 732-345-9977.

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CRAB FEST AT VERVE

A Crab Fest will be held at Verve, 18 Main Street, Somerville, from July 23 through 25, with a portion of the proceeds benefiting the Women’s Health & Counseling Center in Somerville. For more information and reservations call 908-707-8655.

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DINING DEALS

Chef Jesse Jones, known for “New Carolina” cuisine, is offering a three-course dinner for $35 every Tuesday at Harrar Cafe, 11 Village Plaza, South Orange. For reservations call 973-580-2203.

Casa Dante, 737 Newark Avenue, Jersey City, has a recession-buster special on Mondays through July and August with half-price bottles of wine up to $150. Just come in with a party of two or more and order dinner. For reservations call 201-610-9610.

Sundays from 5 to 9 PM are sizzling this summer at High Street Grill, 64 High Street, Mount Holly, with a surf and turf dinner of Dungeness crab and blackened rib eye and the choice of Caesar salad or soup for $20.

The Knife and Fork Inn, Albany and Pacific Avenues, Atlantic City, is now featuring 50 wines under $40. Call 609-344-1133 for more information and reservations.

Latitude 40, 816 Arnold Avenue, Point Pleasant Beach, has a new light dinner menu available from 4:30 to 6 PM Monday through Thursday, priced under $20. For reservations call 732-892-8553.

Market in the Middle, 516 Cookman Avenue, Asbury Park, is offering $1.50 off all drinks and beer at the bar, free wings, and free Cuban fried olives on Fridays from 4 to 7 PM. For more information and dinner reservations call 732-776-8886.

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