Restaurant News

This week Rosie tells us about Corso 98 in Montclair, the Park Steakhouse in Park Ridge, executive chef Anthony Bucco from Uproot in Warren cooking at the Beard House in New York City, and much more news about NJ restaurants.

CORSO 98, MONTCLAIR
On December 10, 1999, we happened to visit a new restaurant in Montclair on opening day. Although we arrived too early for dinner, the owner, Elio Suriano, showed us around, and then his mother gave us a plate of cookies and said, “Please come back in a half hour, when we’re officially open.” We did. We had a fabulous meal, and we’ve been frequenting Corso 98, 98 Walnut Street, Montclair, ever since. Our recent visit was just as memorable as the first time we dined here. We shared a farro soup, which was rich in flavor and brimming with vegetables. A chiffonade topping of basil and Pecorino Romano emitted delectable aromas as our spoons dipped into the soup. Kudos to the kitchen for splitting the one serving into two bowls. Another winner was the humongous Nantucket sea scallops balanced on crostini and surrounded by French beans and a pancetta-sherry-Romano cream sauce with a touch of white truffle oil and parsley. The appetizer specials tempted me, so I ordered two of them as an entrée: fresh baby artichoke hearts with shaved garlic, extra virgin olive oil, Romano cheese, and parsley; and vitello tonnato, shaved round of veal with tuna aioli and fresh red, green, and yellow peppers, accompanied by a citrus-scented baby arugula salad. Both were delightful and are highly recommended. Don’t miss the desserts, which are all made in house by Lisa Marie Suriano. Some options are a nostalgic Italian icebox cake made with layers of graham crackers and chocolate pudding and topped off with fresh whipped cream; orange ladyfinger cake; cheesecake; and our pick, fresh peaches encased in puff pastry and topped with vanilla ice cream. The restaurant is BYO but has a license to sell NJ wine. We had an enjoyable red table wine, Castel di Fiori, made with Italian grapes at Cava Winery in Hamburg. For reservations call 973-746-0789.

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PARK STEAKHOUSE, PARK RIDGE
Steak rules, naturally, at the Park Steakhouse, 151 Kinderkamack Road, Park Ridge, where executive chef John Halligan serves up USDA-certified Black Angus beef that has been dry aged for 21 days. Our starters were a crisp, thick slice of iceberg lettuce topped with a slab of house-smoked applewood bacon, blue cheese green goddess dressing, and plum tomatoes, and a Bibb salad, also with blue cheese and bacon. We loved that the bacon was served hot. With the crispy lettuce, fresh tomatoes, and hot bacon it was like having a BLT on our fork. We chose one fish and one steak entrée. We can highly recommend the 24-ounce cowboy steak. Its flavor and tenderness, and its seared exterior and perfect medium-rare interior, were magnificent. Unfortunately, the accompanying fries were cold. A special of red snapper served with crab, sweet pea, and Portobello mushroom risotto was equally impressive, and the side of spinach with garlic was more than enough for two people to share. The menu changes seasonally, but other choices you may find are braised beef short ribs in Guinness stout with whipped potatoes and tobacco onions; buttermilk fried baby chicken with lumpy mashed potatoes and country-style gravy; braised duck leg and roasted duck breast with homemade sauerkraut, sweet corn custard, and a calvados reduction; and roasted Cervena venison loin with mustard and chive spaetzle and glazed root vegetables. Desserts may include a banana upside-down cake with butter pecan ice cream (we found the cake to be too dry), steamed chocolate pudding with pistachio ice cream, a cheese plate, or profiteroles with cinnamon ice cream and honey chocolate sauce. For reservations call 201-930-1300.

Red snapper with crab, sweet pea, and Portobello mushroom risotto.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.

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UPROOT IN WARREN AT THE BEARD HOUSE IN NYC

On November 22, executive chef Anthony Bucco and sommelier Jonathan Ross from Uproot in Warren will be presenting the following Old World Meets New World dinner at the James Beard House, 167 West 12th Street, NYC.

Hors d’oeuvres: foie gras torchon with elderflower meringue, hazelnut butter, and fried brioche; house-cured organic salmon with watermelon radishes and bitter chocolate; whiskey-spiked pears with deep-fried pork belly and cinnamon; hamachi with green apple mustard and cider gelée
(Spiked Uproot apple cider punch and Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut NV)

Barnegat Light black bass with beets, compressed citrus, and Greek yogurt
(2009 Evesham Wood Blanc du Puits Sec)

Butter-poached Maine lobster with refined carbonara
(2009 Lioco Chardonnay)

Label Rouge guinea hen and black truffle roulade with carrot purée, caramel apple, and game jus
(2007 Heitz Cellar Grignolino)

Cervena venison with huckleberries and Sicilian pistachios
(2008 Owen Roe Ex Umbris Syrah)

Chocolate and peanut butter textures
(Uproot house-made Irish cream and 2008 Bouchaine Bouche d’Or)

7 PM; $170, James Beard Foundation members $130. For reservations call 212-627-2308.

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WINE TASTING DINNERS

On November 21, to celebrate its tenth anniversary, Restaurant Nicholas, 160 Route 35 South, Middletown, will serve a special six-course wine dinner. 6:30 PM; $250 plus tax and gratuity. Call 732-345-9977 for reservations.

On November 16, An Evening With Joe Bastianich featuring his wines and a regional dinner prepared by Chef Giovanni Atzori will be held at Undici Taverna Rustica, 11 West River Road, Rumson. 6:30 PM; $95 all-inclusive. For reservations call 732-842-3880.

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CANAL HOUSE COOKBOOKS
The fifth collection of Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton’s seasonal recipes, Canal House Cooking: The Good Life, is now available and would make a perfect holiday gift. Better yet, buy a subscription for $49.95, which includes three cookbooks delivered throughout the year: summer, fall and holiday, and winter and spring. It’s a good deal, as individual books are $19.95. The latest cookbook is not only a delightful read but also has recipes for beginning and experienced cooks. The chapter on sausages, for example, gives instruction on how to make Italian, lamb, or duck sausage, along with recipes for dishes such as cassoulet and grilled sausages and quail. Those without the time or inclination to make sausages from scratch can just follow the recipes and use store-bought products. You’ll find enticing recipes like eggs with caper and parsley butter sauce; variations of dessert crêpes; gnocchi combined with everything from chicken to lobster; and vegetables (we loved the cauliflower and chickpea recipe). Pork belly, anyone? It’s hard for us to bypass this rich and most delicious meat when we see it on a restaurant menu. Now we can make it at home by following the “anyone can do this” recipe. Another recipe on our list is the Nuns’ Farts—yes, I did a double take as well! A copy of Canal House Cooking or a subscription for three books can be bought online at www.thecanalhouse.com. If you’d like to pay by check, e-mail [email protected] or call 609-802-7997.

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THE SOPRANOS WINES
On November 13 from 1 to 3 PM, Steve Schirripa, who portrayed Bobby Bacala on The Sopranos, will be autographing bottles of the Sopranos Wines (Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Chianti, Cabernet/Merlot/Sangiovese, and Prosecco) at Stew Leonard’s Wines of Springfield, 901 Mountain Avenue, Springfield. Samplings of the wines, which range from $10.99 to $14.99 per bottle, will be available, and for every case sold at the event the Vesuvio Import Company will donate $10 to the Poly Prep Country Day School in Brooklyn. The Allied Beverage Group will match the $10-per-case donation as well. For more information call 908-379-2930.

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The following restaurants will be open on Thanksgiving (Thursday, November 25):

Amanda’s, 908 Washington Street, Hoboken, will have seatings at 1, 3, 5, and 7 PM. Call 201-798-0101 for more information.

Diners will have two options at the Bernards Inn, 27 Mine Brook Road, Bernardsville, for Thanksgiving. A buffet will include oven-roasted organic Griggstown Farm turkey with all the trimmings, as well as beef, seafood, salads, artisanal cheeses, pasta selections, and an elaborate dessert display. Noon to 6 PM; $59, children ages six to twelve $29, children ages two to five $15, children under two free. Seatings for a three-course prix-fixe dinner are from 1 to 7 PM and will include special selections from Chef Corey Heyer. The dinner is priced at $75 for adults and $35 for children ages two to twelve. A Thanksgiving to-go menu is also available. For more information and reservations call 908-766-0002.

Casa Dante, 737 Newark Avenue, Jersey City, will offer a prix-fixe turkey-dinner menu at $49 per person, a special à la carte menu, and the regular à la carte menu. 1 to 9 PM. For reservations call 201-795-2750.

A four-course traditional Italian-American Thanksgiving feast with adults paying $49.95 and children under sixteen paying their age will be offered at Catherine Lombardi, 3 Livingston Avenue, New Brunswick. An à la carte menu will also be available. Seatings from 1 to 6 PM. For reservations call 732-296-9463.

A holiday menu filled with sophisticated renditions of your favorite classics will be served at Copeland Restaurant, Westin Governor Morris, 2 Whippany Road, Morristown. 1 to 9 PM; three-course menu $59, $29 for children ages eleven and under (a children’s menu will also be available). For reservations call 973-451-2619.

David Burke Fromagerie, 26 Ridge Road, Rumson, will offer a three-course Thanksgiving feast, with choices, from 1 to 7 PM for $59. For reservations call 732-842-8088.

The Frog and the Peach, 29 Dennis Street, New Brunswick, will serve a three-course Thanksgiving menu for $52. For reservations call 732-846-3216.

Have Thanksgiving dinner at the shore with a tableside-carved whole roast turkey at the Golden Inn Resort Hotel, Oceanfront at 78th Street, Avalon. 1 to 7 PM; $24.95, children ages twelve and under $9.95. Enjoy Thanksgiving dinner for two and overnight lodging for $139 per couple. For reservations call 609-368-5155.

High Street Grill, 64 High Street, Mount Holly, will serve a prix-fixe menu featuring turkeys from Griggstown Farm. 2 to 8 PM; $35. For reservations call 609-265-9199.

Another favorite shore spot, the Knife and Fork Inn, Albany and Pacific Aves, Atlantic City, will serve Thanksgiving dinner from 2 to 8 PM. For reservations call 609-344-1133.

The Park Steakhouse
, 151 Kinderkamack Road, Park Ridge, will offer its standard à la carte menu as well as traditional holiday fare from 1 to 7 PM. For reservations call 201-930-1300.

Salt Creek Grille
, 4 Bingham Avenue, Rumson, will serve menu favorites and an all-inclusive roast turkey dinner. Noon to 7 PM; $26, children $10. For reservations call 732-751-5134.

Stage Left, 5 Livingston Avenue, New Brunswick, has family-friendly prices for Thanksgiving: Adults pay $59, and children under sixteen pay their age for the three-course Thanksgiving tasting menu. Reserve the Thanksgiving menu when making your reservation. An à la carte menu will also be available. Seatings from 2 to 7 PM. Call 732-828-4444 for reservations.

The Strip House, Westminster Hotel, 550 West Mount Pleasant Avenue, Livingston, will celebrate Thanksgiving in classic style with a menu of holiday favorites, a roast turkey dinner with all the traditional sides ($38, $23 for children), and the regular menu. Noon to 9 PM. For reservations call 973-548-0050.

twofiftytwo, 252 Somerville Rd, Bedminster, will have a Thanksgiving menu available for pick-up on Thanksgiving Eve from 11 AM to 6 PM. For more information call 908-234-9093.

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