BARELI’S, SECAUCUS
Gracious service and comforting food are found at Bareli’s Restaurant, 219 Route 3, Secaucus. The menu, under the direction of executive chef Robb Welch, states, “Our chef will gladly prepare special requests for our customers if available time is allowed.” Our waiter reiterated this tenet and also told us the kitchen would make anything we’d like if they had the ingredients. This attention to creating a hospitable, relaxing atmosphere deserves applause. We found the staff to be professional, with the customer’s comfort and satisfaction being the goal.
Old-school Italian classics are featured on the menu, which is rounded out with daily specials such as squid ink risotto with grilled calamari and pomodoro sauce; braised red snapper fillet fra diavolo with wilted spinach; and pan-steamed Taylor Bay scallops with Pinot Grigio and herbs. One appetizer we tried, which we hadn’t eaten in a long time, was baked clams oreganata, which had a golden-brown topping made from bread crumbs, Parmesan, herbs, olive oil, butter, and lemon juice. It was a luscious starter. The pan juices were perfect for dipping the hot crusty Italian bread that had been placed on our table when we were seated. A plate of tried-and-true penne with pink vodka sauce was enhanced by chunks of shrimp for another perfect starter. Ditto for the flawlessly dressed tricolor salad. Meatballs, anyone? What a treat they are here, moist and surrounded by a tomato sauce that would make any nonna proud. We could have had them over pasta and been very happy.
Entrées run the gamut from fresh fish creations recited as specials by the waiter (unfortunately without the prices) to menu items such as scampi fra diavolo, assorted grilled seafood, and grilled tuna loin. Although meat dishes sounded enticing, with a veal chop, lamb chops, and prime beef being offered in various preparations, we tried the robust chicken scarpariello (shoemaker’s style), served on the bone with fennel-flavored sausage, peppers, and mushrooms. Seasonal chef’s specialties are listed; if it’s available, do try the duck with Grand Marnier sauce, which was a reminder of how a succulent bird can be made even better with a rich, flavorful sauce. This dish may have become a cliché of ’60s cuisine, but we say bring the recipe back into vogue, as it was delightful. We couldn’t decide what to order for dessert. “Let me make you a dessert plate with small tastings,” we were told. “Yes,” we said, and we were presented with a platter of cheeses, berries, pineapple, kiwi, cantaloupe, orange, biscotti, flourless chocolate cake, cannoli, and tiramisu. Did we finish this stunning, colorful construction of sweets? YES!
More than 100 wines are offered by the glass, and wine lovers will enjoy perusing the list, which won the Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator from 2002 to 2009. Soft live piano music wafts its way throughout the restaurant, creating a soothing atmosphere in spite of the fact that the decor is dated.
Bareli’s is conveniently located near the Meadowlands and Secaucus outlets and is open Mondays through Thursdays from 11:30 AM to 11 PM, Fridays from 11:30 AM to midnight, and Saturdays from 4:30 PM to midnight; closed Sundays except holidays. It is also available for private parties. For reservations call 201-865-0473.
Sampler dessert plate from Bareli’s, Secaucus.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.
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LUNCHING
We like to lunch out, and we’re always looking for someplace special that offers more than sandwiches and soups. For some people it’s preferable to go out for lunch rather than dinner. You can get the same three-course meal at a much lower price than you would pay at dinner, the service can be better because the restaurant is usually less crowded than it is in the evening, the noise level is lower, and you’re not rushed, as there is only one seating. Here are two places where we recently had memorable lunches at very reasonable prices. Let us know where you like to have your midday meal.
Boulevard Five 72, 572 Boulevard, Kenilworth, offers a three-course executive lunch Tuesdays through Fridays for $20.10. (It was $20.09 last year.) Four choices were offered for both the appetizer and entrée, and a plate of miniature pastries was served for dessert. The menu changes weekly. We started with a substantial corn chowder with shrimp, apple smoked bacon, and Yukon potato; a dynamite dish. The entrée was a substantial serving of pristine cod with Little Neck clam risotto, asparagus, and English peas. Dessert, the miniature pastries, was scrumptious and more than enough for two people; the plate included dark chocolate cake, almond macaroon, profiterole with cream filling, mini layer cake, and chocolate shell with cream filling. We also shared an à la carte entrée, a light and refreshing grilled seafood salad made with yellowfin tuna, calamari, and shrimp, with a well-balanced citrus vinaigrette. For reservations call 908-709-1200.
Restaurant Serenade, 6 Roosevelt Avenue, Chatham, has a three-course “Page 3” menu that changes weekly and is offered Mondays through Fridays for lunch ($27) and Sundays through Thursdays for dinner ($39). The lunch menu has two choices in each category, which we would have happily ordered if they had been on the à la carte menu. There were two of us, so it was a no-brainer: We told the waiter to bring one of everything. Starters were a vibrant green creamless sweet pea soup with piquillo peppers, and ravioli with a nourishing beef short rib filling, surrounded by sweet peas, baby carrots, grilled Portobello mushrooms, and Parmesan. For one main dish, cubes of butternut squash and pomegranate seeds encircled flawlessly cooked grilled gulf shrimp, which sat atop rosemary polenta studded with diced chorizo; a colorful and tasty entrée. The other entrée was a flavorful hanger steak with cauliflower risotto, roasted vegetables, and red pepper coulis. Of the two desserts, toffee cake and strawberry shortcake, we both preferred the latter. For reservations call 973-701-0303.
Both Boulevard Five 72 and Serenade are lovely restaurants where we experienced professional, attentive service amid chic surroundings. Wine will up the bottom line at both places, but if you’re looking for a relaxing and affordable meal with quality food, think lunch out at these establishments.
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BRUNCHING
The Hilton Short Hills, 41 JFK Parkway, Short Hills, is offering specialty Sunday brunches inspired by retailers from the Mall at Short Hills, in the Terrace Restaurant from 10 AM to 2 PM; $42, children $21 (kids under four free). The following will be featured: April 11, Gucci; April 25, Links of London and Reiss; May 2, Saks Fifth Avenue featuring LaMer and Bobbi Brown; and June 6, Tory Burch. For more information and reservations call 973-912-4757.
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NJ CHEFS AT THE BEARD HOUSE, NYC
On April 19, a Garden State Bounty dinner with Chef Phil Campanella of Liberty House, Jersey City (201-395-0300), and Chef Jerry Villa of Stone House at Stirling Ridge, Warren (908-754-1222), will be held at the James Beard House, 167 West 12th Street, NYC. The following menu will be presented.
Hors d’oeuvres: petite Brie en croûte with Cherry Grove Farm creamery buttercup Brie, local honey, and dried cranberries; house-cured salmon with citrus, radishes, avocado, and tobiko; lamb osso buco with rice, spinach, and saffron; Cherry Grove Farm ham biscuits with jalapeño jelly and mascarpone; espresso-rubbed beef tenderloin crostini with caramelized onion marmalade and Valley Shepherd Creamery crema de blue cheese
(François Pinon Vouvray Pétillant Brut NV and Mauro Vergano Americano Chinato)
Day-boat sea scallop with lemon-herb couscous, tomato tapenade, and chive purée
(2004 Domaine de la Bongran Cuvée Tradition)
Grilled squab with ruby potatoes, cavolo nero, livers, and Vin Santo
(2007 Louis & Claude Desvignes Javernières)
Lamb duo with savory rhubarb cobbler, wilted dandelion greens, pistachio-cognac sauce, farro-roasted vegetable relish, and spring salsa verde
(2001 Château Moulin Pey-Labrie Canon Fronsac)
Braised pork belly with red cabbage, parsnips, and spicy applesauce
(2007 Domaine de l’Oratoire St. Martin Cuvée Prestige Cairanne Rouge)
Three-nut tart with house-made brown butter ice cream
(Quinta do Infantado 10-Year-Old Tawny Port NV)
7 PM; $165, James Beard Foundation members $125. For reservations call 212-627-2308.
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SALT CREEK GRILLE FUNDRAISER
On April 22, Salt Creek Grille, 4 Bingham Avenue, Rumson, will hold its annual anniversary wine and martini tasting fundraiser to benefit the K. Hovnanian Children’s Hospital at Jersey Shore University Medical Center. Additionally, each time throughout the year that the Murray’s stuffed roast chicken dish is ordered at the restaurant, one dollar will be donated to the charity. This year’s event will include live music and an auction, as well as food. 7 to 10 PM; $100. For tickets and more information call 732-751-5134.
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CHEF MATTHEW ZAPPOLI AT COOK ’N’ TELL, COLTS NECK
Executive chef/owner Matthew Zappoli of Tre Amici, 628 Ocean Avenue, Long Branch (732-571-8922; BYO), will be teaching a cooking class at Cook ’n’ Tell, 151 Stone Hill Road, Colts Neck, on April 21. In 2005, Zappoli was named by Bon Appetit as one of “Five Chefs to Watch,” and he participated on the Food Network TV show Chopped in July 2009. At the Cook ’n’ Tell class he will demonstrate how to make fresh mozzarella, Calabrese salad, pan-seared scallops with white wine pan sauce, spring vegetable risotto, and tiramisu. Zappoli will also recount his experiences on Chopped. 7 to 10 PM; $65. To register call 732-577-8484.
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CHEF JESSE JONES
On April 22, a New Carolina Cuisine (fusion of Southern and French cooking) class with Chef Jesse Jones from Heart and Soul Catering will be held at the South Orange Middle School, 70 North Ridgewood Road, South Orange. Jones will demonstrate how to prepare jalapeño and cheddar cornbread, shrimp étouffée, Jambalaya rice and andouille, and peach cobbler with vanilla ice cream. 7 to 9 PM; $45. For more information log on to www.ssreg.com/som or call 973-378-7620.
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LOBSTER NIGHT AT BRADDOCK’S, MEDFORD
The second Wednesday of each month is Lobster Night at Braddock’s, 39 South Main Street, Medford. Diners can opt for a three-course lobster dinner for $29. Call 609-654-1604 for reservations.
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RESTAURANT WEEKS
South Jersey Restaurant Week will be held April 11 through 18, with participating restaurants offering four courses for $25 or $35. For more information log on to www.sjhotchefs.com/restweek.
Jersey Shore Restaurant Week will be held April 16 through 25. Participating restaurants will offer a three-course meal for $20.10 or $30.10. For more information log on to www.jerseyshorerestaurantweek.com.
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A MARRIAGE MADE IN THE KITCHEN AND AT THE BAR
Congratulations to executive chef Thomas Ciszak of Copeland Restaurant, Morristown, on his marriage to Evelyn Hsu, general manager and trained sommelier at Chakra, Paramus.
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