Restaurant News

This week Rosie tells us about Doris & Ed’s in Highlands, Niko’s Trapezi Greek Taverna in Long Branch, Scott Anderson at the Beard House in NYC, Fin in Atlantic City, and much more news about NJ restaurants.

DORIS & ED’S, HIGHLANDS
When a restaurant has been open for 33 years and has been awarded the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence every year since 1985, you know it’s doing something right. Such is the case with Doris & Ed’s, 348 Shore Drive, Highlands, an outstanding restaurant where we recently had a tasting dinner created by new executive chef Thomas Donohoe. Remember that name. We predict that he will be regarded as one of NJ’s top chefs once people have a chance to try his cuisine. Donohoe, originally from Morristown, trained with and was inspired by master chefs Thomas Keller of the French Laundry and Jonathan Waxman of Barbuto. Chef Donohoe presented the following dinner:

Amuse of a clam with avocado dressing presented on a spoon

Salad of mixed herbs with shaved prosciutto di Parma, finely diced apricots, and lemon crème fraiche dressing
(2008 Bergström Old Stones Chardonnay, Oregon)

Sunchoke and crimini soup with shaved Boschetto al Tartufo cheese presented in a mini coffee cup. The cow and sheep’s milk cheese combined with white truffle added depth to the soup.
(2008 Bergström Old Stones Chardonnay, Oregon)

Butter-poached Gulf Coast shrimp with pea tendrils and creamed corn. Butter-poached “anything” is delicious, but these shrimp had a sweet, delicate, melt-in-your-mouth taste, and we liked them better than butter-poached lobster.
(2007 Ramey Russian River Chardonnay, California)

Gently seared Copper River salmon with McCormack Farms asparagus, morel mushrooms, and Pinot Noir reduction. This beautifully presented bright red/orange wild fish was rich and silky. It’s available only three to four weeks a year. The wine, an excellent pairing, complemented the Pinot Noir sauce.
(2007 Bergström Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir, Oregon)

Broiled rack of Colorado lamb over minted quinoa with glazed Thumbelina carrots and white grape emulsion. Lamb from Colorado is our favorite. The unusual thick white grape emulsion enhanced this well-balanced dish. The mint in the quinoa was picked that day from the garden located in back of the restaurant.
(2005 Jim Barry Shiraz, Lodge Hill, Australia)

Gardunha (a goat’s milk cheese from the Gardunha mountain range of Portugal) with thyme, butter, and orange zest walnuts.

Doris & Ed’s banana split with vanilla ice cream, banana semifreddo, strawberry coulis, fudge sauce, and banana brûlée. We licked the plate clean!
(2007 Paul Joboulet Aîné Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, France)

While we were impressed with the quality of the food—pristine fish, tender meat, and vegetables that tasted like…vegetables—we also marveled at the attention to detail and the food presentations. For example, cold dishes, such as salads, were presented on cold plates, and hot dishes, such as the fish, were served on warmed plates. Service was attentive without being obtrusive.

Chef Donohoe has a few menus for diners to choose from: Shore Today, featuring fresh, creatively prepared seafood using seasonal ingredients; Shore Yesterday, featuring all-time favorites; a menu of classic meat dishes with dry- and wet-aged cuts; and a prix-fixe menu, “three for thirty-three dollars,” which offers three choices within each of the three courses. There are also $25, $35, and $45 bottles of wine to choose from on the Wines by Fives list. Children aren’t forgotten here; there’s a Kid Stuff listing for children under twelve, which offers lobster tail, broiled or fried filet of flounder or shrimp, and a hamburger platter.

Owner Jim Filip recently redecorated Doris & Ed’s, and the beige tablecloths, black napkins, and new lights and window treatments create a comfortable setting. There are views of Sandy Hook Bay and the New York skyline, all adding to the ambiance. Filip has a garden in back of the restaurant, behind the fence, where the herbs and lettuces used in chef Donohoe’s cuisine are grown.

Doris & Ed’s is open Wednesday through Friday from 5 to 10 PM, Saturday from 5 to 11 PM, and Sunday from 3 to 10 PM. For reservations call 732-872-1565, and for more information visit www.dorisandeds.com.

Butter-poached shrimp with pea tendrils and creamed corn.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.

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NIKO’S TRAPEZI GREEK TAVERNA
The Website of Niko’s Trapezi Greek Taverna, 444 Ocean Boulevard, Long Branch, states, “We may not allow you to break dishes, but for a little while, we can transport you to your happy place.” How true! When we left this unassuming BYO storefront, located in a strip mall, whose prices are reasonable and portions filling, we were in high spirits. If you have never been here, start with pikilia, an assortment of dips: taramosalata (caviar dip), tzatziki (Greek yogurt with cucumber), melitzanosalata (roasted eggplant), and hummus. And since you’re at a Greek restaurant, try the dolmades (grapes leaves stuffed with rice and herbs), and don’t bypass the spanakopita (spinach, feta, and leeks encased in phyllo dough). Traditional dishes such Greek salad, moussaka, pastitsio, souvlaki, and gyro are on the menu, but except for a menu entrée of sautéed calf’s liver seasoned with Greek herbs and lemon, we all opted for the fish specials of the evening. Charred lavraki, an imported Mediterranean sea bass, was ordered whole and came with an olive oil dressing and a side of steamed escarole. We loved it. Another worthwhile special was a generous portion of broiled sea kebab served over rice and containing lobster, shrimp, scallops, and fillet of sole topped with onions, tomatoes, and peppers. The octopus and calamari on a seafood platter, which also contained shrimp, were so tender that we could cut them with a fork. Desserts were koulourakia, a sesame seed butter cookie; melmakarona, a honey-soaked dense semolina cookie topped with finely chopped walnuts; and kourambiethes, a shortbread cookie topped with powdered sugar. We also shared an ekmek kataifi consisting of a base of shredded phyllo dough, pastry cream, whipped cream, and toasted almond slivers. Yes, we were stuffed. Niko’s is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday from 11:30 AM to 9 PM. For reservations call 732-222-4600.

Niko’s lavraki.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.

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CHEF’S LAB, MONTCLAIR
Chef’s Lab has recently opened at 345 Bloomfield Avenue, Montclair, featuring an environmentally conscious space that was designed by local artisans and Montclair State University students, using remodeled and reclaimed fixtures and furniture. The lab has two components: a retail space with a wide selection of culinary tools, cookware, service pieces, and specialty foods, and an educational area where cooking classes are held for students at all levels. The store has a comfy sofa and a relaxing study area, where more than 300 cookbooks and reference materials are available for browsing or purchasing. We loved the unusual selection of bulk spices and the olive oil bar with refillable bottles. For more information log on to www.chefslaboratory.com or call 973-746-1260.



Asparagus with Asian dipping sauce, created by Chef Ellie Esposito at Chef’s Lab.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.

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SCOTT ANDERSON AT THE BEARD HOUSE, NYC

On July 13, a Summer Rosé dinner with Scott Anderson, executive chef/co-owner of Elements in Princeton, will be held at the James Beard House, 167 West 12th St, NYC. The following menu will be presented.

Hors d’oeuvres: foie gras torchon with Minneolas (tangelos) and Parmesan shortbread; house-made weisswurst with mustard greens and Bavarian mustard; Tubmill Creek Farms steak tartare; tater tots with Blis steelhead roe and crème fraîche; Kindai tuna tartare
(Parigot Crèmant de Bourgogne Brut Rosé NV)

House-made charcuterie of pâtés, wursts, and Mangalica pork with mustards and crackers
(2005 Château d’Arlay Corail Rosé)

Santa Barbara spot prawn with cured melon, banyuls, and Thai basil
(2009 Tenuta Guado al Tasso Scalabrone Bolgheri Rosato)

Bouillabaisse with local fishes
(2009 Domaine Brazilier Tradition Gris)

New Jersey whey-fed pig with black rice soubise and sweet-and-sour peaches
(2009 Buoncristiani Rosato)

Black Forest cake with lambic granité and chocolate sponge
(Lindemans Framboise Lambic)

7 PM; $170, James Beard Foundation members $130. For reservations call 212-627-2308.

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BIG, FAT GREEK FESTIVAL

On July 2, 3, and 4, the Sixth Annual Opa! Big, Fat Greek Festival sponsored by the St. Anna Greek Orthodox Church will be held at Razberry’s Banquet Center, 875 Route 12, Flemington, to benefit the Parish Building Fund. Enjoy traditional Greek cuisine, including pasticcio, moussaka, spanakopita, souvlaki, roasted lamb, stuffed tomatoes or peppers (vegetarian style), and lamb sliders, as well as traditional Greek pastries such as baklava (honey nut strudel), koulourakia (butter cookies), kourabiedes (almond shortbread cookies), and loukoumades (honey-covered doughnuts). George Staikos, noted sommelier and wine educator, will select a variety of Greek wines representing the different regions of the country, which will be chosen to especially enhance the dishes offered at the festival. Greek music, folk dancing, cultural exhibits, vendors, and a children’s activity center are a few of the many activities that will add to the fun. July 2, 5 to 10 PM; July 3, noon to 10 PM; July 4, noon to 9 PM. Open to the public, free admission and parking. For more information and directions go to www.StAnnaGOC.org or call the parish office at 908-782-9741.

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FIN, ATLANTIC CITY
Along with outdoor oceanfront patio seating, all of the seats at the newly opened Fin, Tropicana Casino and Resort, 2831 Boardwalk, Atlantic City, have an ocean view. Under the direction of Chef Demetrios Haronis, the menu, which changes seasonally, features locally grown food and wine from New Jersey fishermen, farmers, and vintners. Menu items include dancing shrimp made with onion panko-crusted shrimp and served with a lobster crab cake; “crabsickles” consisting of jumbo lump crab on a crab leg; grilled tuna ribs; and house-made oyster cracker breadsticks. There is also a sushi and raw bar. The wine list offers “50 under $50,” and there are daily evening cocktail specials made with hand-crafted simple syrups and mixers as well as a variety of fresh-squeezed juice drinks. Fin is open Wednesday through Sunday from 6 to 11 PM. For reservations call 609-340-4936.

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DRINK WINE AND SUPPORT THE BATTLESHIP NEW JERSEY
The Battleship New Jersey in Camden has joined forces with Auburn Road Vineyards in Pilesgrove to introduce Battleship White wine, made from the Cayuga grape, and Battleship Red wine, made primarily from Merlot grapes blended with a small amount of Chambourcin. A portion of each bottle sold goes directly to the battleship. To order visit www.auburnroadvineyards.com.

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FIREWORKS AND DINNER

Watch the fireworks on July 3 at Restaurant Nicholas, 160 Route 35 South, Middletown. Nicholas will be offering a three-course menu for $95, with reservations taken from 6 until 7:30 PM. The Red Bank fireworks are scheduled to go off at 9:15 PM, and diners can watch them from the restaurant parking lot or from a viewing area up the road. For reservations call 732-345-9977.

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RESTAURANT CRAWL

On June 30, a restaurant crawl featuring four restaurants within walking distance of each other, each offering a different course, will be held on Haddon Avenue in Collingswood. Participants include the Tortilla Press (appetizers), El Sitio (soup or salad course), West Side Gravy (entrée), and the Pop Shop (dessert). Family-style seating. 6:30 PM; $41; BYO. Call 856-979-3333 for reservations.

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DINING DEALS

Busch’s Seafood Restaurant
, 8700 Landis Avenue, Sea Isle City, offers an early menu daily from 4 to 5:30 PM. Reservations are accepted for parties of eight or more; call 609-263-8626.

Lazy Lobster Sundays are celebrated at Brandl, 703 Belmar Plaza, Belmar, with live jazz and a three-course dinner that includes soup or salad, lobster, dessert, and coffee for $35. For reservations call 732-280-7501.

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Please send press releases and restaurant news, including information on staff changes, wine tastings, and cooking classes, to [email protected].

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