UPROOT, WARREN
“It shouldn’t have taken us so long to return here,” I said to Lowell after finishing an exquisite dinner at Uproot, 9 Mount Bethel Road, Warren. Executive chef Anthony Bucco’s contemporary American cuisine using seasonal ingredients had us sighing with pleasure. In addition to the eye-catching and colorful plating, professional service, and striking decor, Uproot is one of the top dining rooms in the state.
Bucco never fails to surprise and entertain by using familiar ingredients with unfamiliar accoutrements or preparations. For example, the poached egg in the asparagus tasting is encased in a delicate crust, house-cured salmon is sprinkled with bitter chocolate (it works), a pork entrée has pickled grapes, and the blackberry tasting dessert comes with a small glass of blackberry soda.
Along with the aforementioned asparagus tasting, we started with an amuse of tuna tartare followed by roasted octopus with duck ham, confit cherry tomato, and aged balsamic; agnolotti filled with fresh ricotta accompanied by English peas, fava beans, and wax beans; Muth Family Farm strawberry salad with Blue Moon Farm wild arugula (more intense than regular arugula), hazelnuts, and Crottin de Chavignol goat cheese; and my favorite (although everything was scrumptious), a Merguez-sausage-stuffed quail with ramp risotto and piquillo pepper coulis.
Entrées were equally memorable. Tender Long Island duck was enhanced by charred treviso (a mild variety of radicchio), flavor-packed compressed melon, and duck sausage. Delicate-flavored skate wing was heightened by a beurre noisette sauce, artichokes, cauliflower, and mousseron mushrooms. Smoky and seductive bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin along with Niman Ranch pork belly was paired with a mac-and-cheese terrine and pickled grapes—a perfectly balanced dish that we loved. We made the mistake of filling up on the crunchy rolls with sweet butter served with dinner, so for dessert we ordered only a tasting of blackberries with shortcake, blackberry soda, compressed blackberries, and vanilla cream. Save room for dessert—it’s worth it.
Uproot is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner Monday through Saturday. For reservations call 908-834-8194.
Uproot strawberry salad.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.
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HO-HO-KUS INN & TAVERN, HO-HO-KUS
It was constructed in 1796, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and was packed with diners both inside and outside on the patio on a Saturday night. The Ho-Ho-Kus Inn & Tavern, 1 East Franklin Turnpike, Ho-Ho-Kus, under the direction of executive chef Bryan Gregg, offers an updated classic American menu, with an emphasis on locally sourced, farm-fresh produce and sustainable ingredients. Some menu items: yellow, red, and chioggia beet crudo trilogy with Coach Farms triple-cream goat cheese, walnut butter, and mache; halibut steak with a morel crust, smoked potatoes, mussels, and ramp ham hock jus; and saddle of domestic lamb with Bucheron pepper gnocchi, mint smashed peas, and pearl onions. In-house pastry chef Patrick Muller creates tempting desserts such as tapioca pudding with strawberry rhubarb compote, apricot yogurt sorbet, and mint syrup, and unusual ice cream flavors including five spice and pistachio avocado. For a more casual meal, dine in the tavern or on the patio, where salads, pizza, and sandwiches are available. The Ho-Ho-Kus Inn is open daily for lunch and dinner and on Sundays for brunch. For reservations call 201-445-4115.
Beet trilogy at the Ho-Ho-Kus Inn.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.
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HAMILTON & WARD STEAKHOUSE, PATERSON
There’s a new place to get your steak fix, with the opening of Hamilton & Ward Steakhouse, 101 Ward Street, Paterson. The menu follows the same template as many steakhouses, with 28-day dry-aged USDA prime beef (aged on the premises), two- to seven-pound whole Maine lobsters, a raw bar, à la carte sides, and a few seafood dishes, including branzino, tuna, Chilean sea bass, salmon, and shrimp. Salads portions are large, come on chilled plates, and can easily be shared by two. Ditto for the sides. We had enough sautéed spinach for dinner the next night. The 24-ounce T-bone came as ordered, medium-rare, and although it was tender we didn’t taste the concentration of flavors that we love in a dry-aged steak. The American lamb chops were thinly sliced (no double cuts here) and were so doused with a thin, salty sauce that we couldn’t assess the meat. A 48-ounce porterhouse for two is available, as is the Flintstone, a 32-ounce hunk of beef on a bone that could be a stand-in for a club. Although everything we had until dessert was an extremely generous portion, the cheesecake with berries was a small serving, so consider getting two desserts if you still have room to indulge. In the evening you can get four hours of free parking in the lot next to the restaurant when you bring your receipt from dinner. For reservations call 973-345-8444.
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HALFWAY TO VALENTINE’S DAY AT STAGE LEFT, NEW BRUNSWICK
A Halfway to Valentine’s Day dinner will be held at Stage Left, 5 Livingston Avenue, New Brunswick, and at Catherine Lombardi, 3 Livingston Avenue, New Brunswick, on August 13 and 14. The Stage Left package costs $150 per couple and includes two glasses of champagne or two champagne cocktails, a cut rose on the table, a four-course tasting menu, and preferred seating on Valentine’s Day next February. For more information and reservations call 732-828-4444. The Catherine Lombardi package costs $95 per couple and includes two glasses of prosecco or two Bellini, a cut rose on the table, a four-course tasting menu, and preferred seating next Valentine’s Day. For reservations call 732-296-9463. An optional overnight hotel accommodation is available at the Heldrich, New Brunswick, for $99.
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JERSEY FRESH WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL
On August 14 and 15, the Jersey Fresh Wine & Food Festival will be held at Heritage Vineyards, 480 Mullica Hill Road, Mullica Hill; noon to 5 PM; one day $18, both days $30. The event will feature 25 wineries and 200 wines available for tasting, plus live music, foods, and artisanal crafts. Visit www.newjerseywines.com/festivals.html for more information and tickets.
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ANOTHER NJ CHEF WINS ON CHOPPED
Congratulations to Matthew Zappoli, executive chef/owner of Tre Amici—Al Piccolo Forno, 628 Ocean Avenue, Long Branch (732-571-8922), on his winning the “Dream’n of Redeem’n” episode of Food Network’s Chopped on July 20. The show will be aired again on August 6 at 8 PM and August 7 at 3 AM and 3 PM.
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DINING DEALS
If you’re seated by 6:30 PM at the Ebbitt Room, 29 Perry Street, Cape May, you will receive a 10 percent discount off your total bill. For reservations call 609-884-5700.
Through September 27, Flemings, 90 the Promenade, Edgewater (201-313-9463), and 500 Route 73 North, Marlton (856-988-1351), will offer a three-course menu with two appetizer and two entrée options and a dessert of Key lime pie for $39.95.
Il Michelangelo, 91 Elcock Avenue, Boonton, is offering a three-course summer special menu, with choices, for $25.95. For reservations call 973-316-1111.
Dungeness Crab Night is featured on Wednesdays through September at Lambertville Station, 11 Bridge Street, Lambertville, with one pound for $17.99. For reservations call 609-397-8300.
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