AGRICOLA, PRINCETON
Our memorable dinner at Agricola in Princeton started before we entered the restaurant. There is a window on the sidewalk that looks into the kitchen—a brilliant marketing and design decision—where you can see the focused chefs attending to their tasks. What fun it was to watch them cook and we couldn’t help but comment on items that we wanted to try. Agricola, means farmer in Latin, and most of the food served here comes from owner Jim Nawn’s 112 acre Great Road Farm in Skillman and other local producers. Upon entering the restaurant, we saw a poster with a list of vegetables and the season each is available; they are serious about being a farm-to-table restaurant.
The space is stunning and you can opt for a variety of dining experiences depending on the room you request to be seated in. The bar is abuzz with people at a communal table and high tops. Your eyes can’t help honing in on the striking lights made from old crystal lamps. Also, check out the shelves filled with house-made pickled vegetables in mason jars. Rustic finishes, all reflecting the farm-to-table theme, include wooden beams and tables, brick walls (one with Thank A Farmer stenciled on it), wood or burlap covered ceilings, and waiters in jeans and casual, plaid cotton shirts. Green checkered napkins adorn the bare tables. We sat in the quieter kitchen area and were able to watch the chefs and waiters at work. Outdoor dining is also available weather permitting.
Executive chef/partner Josh Thomsen has impressive credentials. Originally from Woodcliff Lake, he received the Rising Star award in the San Francisco Bay Area by Star Chefs in 2010 and has worked under chef Thomas Keller at the French Laundry in Yountville, as well at Tao in the Venetian Resort in Las Vegas and in Southern California under master chef Joachim Splichal of the Patina Restaurant Group. Indeed, he is a “star chef” and we are thrilled to have him in NJ.
Dinner started with an amuse of smoked salmon with pickled onion on a herbed flatbread and delicious bread from Balthazar bakery. Apps were a Great Road Farm poached egg served in a bowl with red potatoes, frisée, and truffle vinaigrette. Note to waiter: Serve this dish with a spoon so that all of the delicious liquid can be scooped up. The perfectly grilled octopus was enhanced with pickled cauliflower, bell pepper, black garlic and toasted almonds. The seasonal pea soup was served cold, we would have preferred it hot. The market salad, while composed of pristine greens, had an overly sweet dressing. Coach Farm goat cheese and potato terrine with roasted beets, micro arugula and balsamic syrup was absolutely glorious.
Sweet Cape May day boat sea scallops were enriched with a cauliflower, golden raisin-caper relish and toasted almonds. And guess who had the Eden Farms pork chop? Yep, Lowell. And he thought it was perfect, as it was tender, juicy and served medium rare. Accompaniments were red-wine braised cabbage, grits, pearl onions, caramelized apple and mustard making for a superb combination of flavors. Chicken, which can be a ho-hum dish, was deftly prepared and offered with Tuscan fried potatoes, sauteed farm greens and a green-olive fennel tapenade. The winning dish at our table was the exceptional braised Colorado veal shank which serves 3 to 4 people. This Flintstone hunk of meat was so fork tender and the gravy so flavorful that you may not want to share it in order to have leftovers to bring home. Paired with creamy polenta, a sweet counterpoint of tomato conserva, wilted spinach, melted leeks and rosemary, this was an exceptional, well balanced dish that you must try if you are a veal lover and have enough people at your table who want to try it.
If you prefer not to order a bottle of wine there are enough wines available by the glass and half glass to choose from, as well as specialty cocktails such as the Great Dirt Road Farm Martini made with organic vodka, brine, and pickled vegetables from Great Road Farm. What we also found interesting was that nonalcoholic, house-made soda was available as well as fresh-squeezed juices.
Don’t miss the desserts created by Sarah Hecksteden, formerly of the Inn at Little Washington. They rock. We loved the rich chocolate devil’s food cake with a black pepper meringue icing, the Meyer lemon cheesecake with huckleberries and vanilla salt; the moist and unusual black-plum teff cake and the cheeses from Valley Shepherd Creamery in Long Valley served with a dried zucchini bread that reminded us of biscotti. The only dessert that was disappointing was mixed-berry cobbler skillet cake which was dry and more cake than cobbler. Kudos to the chef for offering a dessert made with teff as this high protein grain can be eaten by those who have celiac disease.
Agricola is open 5 to 10 PM daily and for brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10:30 AM to 2:30 PM.
Agricola veal shank before.
Agricola veal shank after.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
Agricola
11 Witherspoon St
Princeton
609-921-2798
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RAZZA PIZZA ARTIGINALE, JERSEY CITY
It’s no surprise that there is not a miss on the menu since co-owners Dan Richer and Fred Shandler have a commitment to use the best possible products and even use their own grown yeast culture for their breads and pizza dough. You can tell the difference. Chef Richer was also a James Beard Rising Star Chef semi-finalist in 2011.
Little gem lettuce with Jersey strawberries.
Handmade is the word for everything available here, starting with the churned butter, deeply satisfying stracciatella cheese and bread. It’s hard not to fill up on just these ingredients, they are that good. On this visit along with the bread, butter and cheese, we started with speck, a Tuscan kale salad with a Caesar dressing, sourdough croutons and slices of parmigiano regiano; and a special of the evening: little gem lettuce with sweet Jersey strawberries. All were refreshing, crowd-pleasing dishes made with quality ingredients. Fire-roasted meatballs are also a must. These flavorful orbs came with a rich tomato sauce that can be mopped up with the bread. Three terrific pizzas were tried: a Margherita with tomato sauce, handmade fresh mozzarella, basil, Maine coast sea salt and California extra virgin olive oil; a wild boar and Tuscan kale pizza; and a Spring pie with fresh mozzarella, asparagus, spring onions and parmigiano. All were standouts and cooked in a wood-fired stove that is kept at 900 degrees giving the pizzas a charred blistery crust.
Margherita pizza.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
We love the ambiance and energy level here. This 40-seat restaurant is housed in the old Majestic Theater built in 1907 and has the original railings in the entrance. There is a small libation list with craft beers, cocktails and all the wine selections from the Alba region of Italy or the surrounding area except the Prosecco.
Razza is open for dinner daily, except Sunday, from 5:30 until 10 PM and for lunch on Saturdays from noon to 2:30 PM. Reservations are not accepted.
Razza Pizza Artiginale
275 Grove St
Jersey City
201-356-9348
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SALT CREEK GRILLE, PRINCETON
On June 20, Salt Creek Grille, 1 Rockingham Row, Princeton will host their annual Wine & Dine Festival & Fundraiser, benefiting Big Brothers Big Sisters of Mercer County, under big tents on the Salt Creek Grille lawn. 6 to 9 PM; $60 in advance, $75 at the door includes unlimited food, wine, and beer with music, auctions, prizes, and giveaways. For information or to purchase tickets, call 609-419-4200.
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BEER EVENTS THIS WEEKEND
On Friday, June 14 and Saturday, June 15, the NJ Beer and Food Festival will be held at Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg. On Friday, June 14, there will be a Top Chefs & Brews reception from 8 to 11 PM; $95. On Saturday at 9 AM, there will be a Brews & Birdies on the golf courses ($195) and from 3 to 7 PM, the beer festival will be held on the 9th hole of the Cascades Golf Course with brews and food; $85. For information or tickets, call 973-827-5996.
On Saturday June 15, a Wine, Beer & Cheese Tasting will be held at the Liberty Hall Museum Carriage House & Gardens, 1003 Morris Ave, Union, to benefit the Arc of Union County. 4 to 8 PM; $35; $40 after June 7 and at the door. For tickets, visit: www.arcwinetasting2013.evenbrite.com/.
The New Jersey Beer Company, 4201 Tonnelle Ave, North Bergen, which just celebrated its third anniversary has a tasting room that is open most Friday nights from 5 to 9 PM and Saturdays from 1 to 6 PM. They brew a 1787 Abbey Single Ale (named for the date that NJ became a state), Hudson Pale Ale and Garden State Stout. Check their website at www.njbeerco.com for event and tour information.
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WILDWOOD RESTAURANT WEEK
Wine and dine your way through Wildwood from June 16 to 21 with participating restaurants offering four-course meals, including appetizer, salad, entrée and dessert for only $30, plus tax and gratuity. For a list of participating restaurants and menus, visit www.WildwoodByTheSeaRestaurantWeek.com or call 609-729-9000.
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