Restaurant News

This week Rosie tells us about Agricola in Princeton at the Beard House in NYC, Oceana in New York City, a Lobster Fest at Steakhouse 85 in New Brunswick and much more news about NJ restaurants.

***********************************
AGRICOLA AT BEARD HOUSE, NYC

On August 6, a Rustic Farmhouse Feast with chef/partner Josh Thomsen of Agricola in Princeton and Farmer Steve Tomlinson of Great Road Farm in Skillman will be held at the James Beard House, 167 W 12 Street, New York. The following menu will be presented with a selection of fine California wines:

   Hors d’oeuvres: rabbit rillettes with mustard–thyme crackers; beet tartare on tempura onion petals;    poached sweet shrimp with pickled watermelon; and Great Road Farm pickled vegetables.

   Great Road Farm egg custard with sweet corn and summer truffles

   Heirloom tomatoes with radishes, basil-infused oil, and almond hummus

   Cape May day boat scallop with fingerling potato–bacon cake, shaved apples, fennel, and mustard    vinaigrette

   Elysian Farms lamb loin with cumin-scented carrot purée and chickpea fries

   TCHO Chocolate–beet napoleon with chocolate sponge, crispy beets, and balsamic foam

7 PM; $170; members $130. Reservations: 212-627-2308.

***********************************

OCEANA, NEW YORK CITY
The last time we dined at Oceana in NYC was when celebrity chef Rick Moonen was a chef partner. He left in September 2005 and the restaurant relocated to the McGraw building in August 2009. There are two NJ connections at Oceana who are creating highly praised food that has been Michelin-star rated since 2006: Executive chef Ben Pollinger, who grew up in Rutherford and lives in Oradell, and executive pastry chef Joseph Gabriel, who you may remember from The Pluckemin Inn. We were overdue for a visit.

The large, modern room is stunning and remarkably quiet. It has eye-catching floral arrangements, floor-to-ceiling windows, a large lobster tank in front of an open kitchen, fish lithographs adorning the walls, and the tables set far apart.

We started with wines and cocktails. The wine list is very big with 1,000 curated selections. It is available online, so you may want to do your homework before visiting the restaurant. We ordered a Pazo Barrantes, 2011 Albarino, Rias Baixas which was $52 and a few people with us ordered cocktails. One, the signature Oceana was passed around the table for everyone to take a sip, and we found it refreshing. Made with Ketel One Citrus, cucumber, mint, grapefruit, and Fino Sherry, served in a glass with a salt-crusted rim, it had a few pieces of fjallagro a lichen that grows in Iceland, floating on top, which helped to aptly name this drink.

As to be expected, the menu focuses on seafood although there are a few steaks and one chicken dish available. Starters were crispy, fried calamari with a house-made tartar sauce; colorful Romanesco and purple cauliflower, pickled honshimeiji mushrooms, and saffron salad; mushroom risotto with duck confit, cherries, and a ruby port reduction; seared Hudson Valley foie gras with carrot-orange puree and a prune compote; and a fabulous homemade pasta with pork sausage, ricotta and roasted tomato. All were worthy starters. One entrée that we had to order was the rabbit and shrimp paella for two with Bomba rice from Spain, chorizo, blood sausage, asparagus, and saffron as it contained such an unusual combination of ingredients and Lowell loves rabbit. It was topped with oysters in their shells. The Crispy soft-shell crabs came with a choice of sauces, we opted for the hollandaise, and herb-crusted halibut was adorned with meaty Trumpet Royale mushrooms and enhanced with an olive vinaigrette. All of the fish was pristine, fresher than fresh, and all of the dishes were deeply satisfying. A side of wilted spinach with creme fraîche, roasted garlic, and lemon was shared.

Although full, we couldn’t say no to dessert as we were familiar with the very talented executive pastry chef Joseph Gabriel, whose desserts we swooned over when he was at the Pluckemin Inn in Bedminster. So we shared an Oceana cookie plate, which had an assortment of eight different black & white themed cookies; an unusual, multi-textured carrot waffle with toasted-coriander ice cream, walnut-brittle powder, spiced carrot jus, and carrot chips; highly recommended dark chocolate and strawberry napoleon with chocolate crunch, strawberry gelato, and macerated strawberries; a scoop each of rhubarb tarragon and mixed-berry sorbet; and dark chocolate brownie soufflé with Dulcey malt ice cream and chocolate pearls.

We left Oceana with smiles on our faces and a promise to get back there sooner. The restaurant is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner daily.

Oceana
120 W. 49th St., New York, NY
212-759-5941


Fried calamari with a house made tartar sauce and cauliflower, pickled honshimeiji mushrooms, and saffron salad.

Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein

*************************

FARM TO TABLE FUNDRAISER AT TERHUNE ORCHARDS
On July 25, a seven-course Farm-to-Table Fundraiser with wine pairings will be held at Terhune Orchards, 330 Cold Soil Road, Princeton to benefit Sustainable Jersey. The following chefs will be participating: Christopher Albrecht, Eno Terra; Scott Anderson, Elements/Mistral; Aaron Philipson, Blue Bottle Café; Jonathan Benno, Lincoln Restaurant; Josh Thomsen, Agricola; Christine Merker, Meals For Reals; and Gabby Carbone, The Bent Spoon. 5 PM; $150. To purchase tickets visit http://www.sustainablejersey.com/events-trainings/sustainable-jersey-farm-to-table-fundraiser/

****************************

AMIYA RESTAURANTS, PARSIPPANY & JERSEY CITY
Amiya Restaurants at 252 Rt 46 in Parsippany (973-521-9100) and 160 Greene St, Jersey City (201-433-8000) have introduced a charity menu item to benefit Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation, which raises money for pediatric cancer research. The restaurants will donate 100 percent of the proceeds from the Thyme-Lemon Chicken priced at $16 and will change the charity menu item periodically. Appetizers, desserts, and vegetarian entrees are being planned. For more information, visit www.amiyarestaurant.com/

**************************

LOBSTER FEST AT STEAKHOUSE 85, NEW BRUNSWICK
Through September 1, Steakhouse 85, 85 Church St, New Brunswick will feature a Lobster Fest with choices ranging from 1.5 to 4 pounds that can be steamed, broiled, stuffed with crab meat, or stuffed oreganata style. Reservations: 732-247-8585.

********************************

FARM TO FORK WEEK IN SOUTH JERSEY
South Jersey Hot Chefs will be celebrating Farm to Fork Week July 21 to July 27 with participating restaurants offering four courses for $35 or $25. A two-course lunch menu for $10 is also available. Information: http://www.sjhotchefs.com/

*************************

PAL’S CABIN IN PARTERSHIP WITH FAIRCHILD’S MARKET, ROSELAND
Pals Cabin, in West Orange, which recently closed, has announced a new partnership with Fairchild’s Market, at 171 Eagle Rock Ave in Roseland (973-226-0400). The menu will include well-liked Pals Cabin items, such as cream of mushroom soup, French onion soup, burgers, franks, turkey wrap, hot turkey and roast beef sandwiches. Plans are to have seating for 70 guests.

************************

BERTA’S CHATEAU, WANAQUE
Congratulations to Berta’s Chateau, 7 Grove St, Wanaque (973-835-0992), which has received its 25th straight Wine Spectator award. For 23 years in a row Berta’s received the "Best of Award of Excellence," which is every year since that level was created. The prior two years were "Award of Excellence."

******************

Please send press releases and restaurant news, including information on staff changes, wine tastings, and cooking classes, to [email protected].

***********************************

Read more Table Hopping articles.

By submitting comments you grant permission for all or part of those comments to appear in the print edition of New Jersey Monthly.

Required
Required not shown
Required not shown