THIRTY ACRES, JERSEY CITY
A year had passed since we dined at Thirty Acres, (http://njmonthly.com/blogs/tablehopwithRosie/2012/6/6/restaurant-news.html), and chef/owner Kevin Pemoulie is still getting a lot of buzz and lines out the door. Some of his many well-deserved accolades are: two stars in the New York Times (NY edition); “Don’t Miss” in the New York Times, NJ edition; nomination for a James Beard Award for best new restaurant; and listed as one of the Top 25 restaurants by New Jersey Monthly in 2012 and 2013.
So how was Thirty Acres after being away for a year? It was better and more exciting than before. The menu was larger, and the food as delicious, if not more so, although understandably prices are higher. Another plus—they now serve bread. Simple, perfectly cooked, seasonal ingredients and light sauces still steal the show here.
Cucumber pickles are not something that we would usually order to nibble on, but the classic dill, spicy and bread & butter ones here each had a different level of flavor and crispness; a perfect beginning to our meal. Grilled asparagus had appeal from lobster sauce, miso and brown butter a great grouping of flavors. Fluke was paired with trout roe, shallot, dried Turkish peppers, delfino (an herb in the cilantro family), and potato chip, a visual and culinary delight. Hamachi came with contrasting sweet and acidic tastes from the honey, pickled celery, green strawberries and chamomile. Summer beans were our favorite app, with chili pancetta vinaigrette, bottarga (cured fish roe) and Sicilian pistachios, which made them both spicy and salty in a delicious way. How does chef Pemoulie come up with these unusual combinations that work? The chicken breast was juicy; it came with a smoky sauce, ribbons of carrots, ground sausage and fermented ramps. The fettuccini Nero had a spicy tomato sauce, squid-ink pasta, squid, mussels and fresh oregano. We were enraptured with the two cuts of lamb, a crispy breast and loin, which was accompanied by snap peas, harissa, anchovy, olives, chickpeas and za’atar. This well-balanced memorable dish shined not only for its different textures but the interesting ingredients.
Summer beans with chili pancetta vinaigrette, bottarga and Sicilian pistachios.
Three desserts are now offered, last time there was only one (and that one is still thankfully on the menu and terrific). Kevin’s Mom’s lemon bars are sweet and tangy; we loved them. If available, order the coffee pot de crème with white chocolate hazelnuts and Spanish paprika. It was strong enough that we bypassed having coffee. The light and refreshing olive oil cake had depth from the star anise spiced strawberries and quark.
Thirty Acres fluke.
Thirty Acres recently obtained their liquor license. The beer and wine selections are very minimal, so you may want to check the offerings online before you go. A $20 corkage fee per bottle is charged. Also, be aware that the noise level is painful and with the background music, conversation is impossible when the restaurant is full.
Thirty Acres chicken.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
The restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 6 PM for dinner, and noon to 3 PM on Saturday for brunch. From Monday through Wednesday, dinner reservations are accepted for parties of 5 to 8; Thursday through Saturday, for parties of 5 or 6 only; reservations not accepted for brunch and they cannot accommodate parties larger than eight.
Thirty Acres will be closing for summer vacation September 1 to 8.
Thirty Acres
500 Jersey Ave
Jersey City
201-435-3100
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URSINO, UNION
Like Thirty Acres it was more than a year since we dined at Ursino in Union. They were also listed as one of the top NJ Restaurants by New Jersey Monthly in 2012 and 2013. As with our last visit, the Modern American cuisine was delicious, beautifully plated and the ingredients used were of the highest quality. The food still impresses; the service does not.
As with many restaurants now, Ursino has its own garden/farm and uses local vendors whenever possible. We were seated at the furthest table from the front of the restaurant, where the wine is elegantly stored behind glass and a door leads out to the restrooms. It was noiseless there, and when we left the restaurant and heard the din in the dining room, we realized that we were lucky to have been seated at what was probably the quietest table in the house.
The bread basket was accompanied by butter and a chickpea dip topped with olive oil. Two starters were notable: an ethereal local ricotta agnolotti with braised crimini mushrooms, wildflower honey, and olive oil emulsion; and crispy elephant garlic, langoustine, and chorizo caramel, in which a white-almond gazpacho soup was poured from a teapot into the bowl. The clunker was a cold and soggy zucchini blossom with ricotta and piave cheese filling, although the accompanying layer of spring vegetable ratatouille was well executed.
Entrees were commendable and showed off the talents of executive chef Peter Turso and his inventive preparations. The large portion of arctic char got its oomph from smoked sun chokes, rainbow Swiss chard and dollops of a green-pepper harissa sauce. The chickpea falafel with sherry eggplant caviar and pickled vegetables was so flavorful it could have been ordered as a side dish for the table to share. East Coast halibut sat on a raft of asparagus and was surrounded by mushroom conserva and a crispy and creamy pomme mille feuille. The dish was finished with a spoonful of rich pea puree. We loved it. The tender, Long Island crescent duck was also a large portion and was enhanced by roasted shallot puree, chanterelle mushrooms, and pickled gooseberries. The sauce was so enticing that we finished it with a spoon.
We oohed and aahed when the bright and colorful dessert, Garibaldi, was placed on the table. Served in a glass and containing grapefruit gewürztraminer, gelee, grapefruit cloud, avocado, blood-orange sorbet and kumquat, this refreshing dessert is highly recommended, as is the chocolate-hazelnut cake served with blackberries and a Burgundy sabayon.
Now to the service. What a shame that the staff is not properly trained. Twice servers started to take plates from the table when people were still eating and even had forks in their hands. Entrée plates were put in front of the wrong people, and we had to ask for our bread basket to be refilled. Entrée prices range from $24 to $32. This is not a diner. We had a glass of wine each at the bar before our friends arrived and kudos to the young bartender who saw me make a face when I tasted my wine and offered to pour me something different. At dinner, we ordered a bottle of Kopke Douro Red Reserva 2009 (Douro, Portugal) that was $55 and on the Internet averages $14.
People were wearing everything from jackets and ties to shorts and sloppy jeans. Come as you are seems to be the dress code here and, depending on your point of view, this could be a plus or a minus. Ursino is open for lunch Tuesday through Friday and dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
East Coast halibut with asparagus mushroom conserva, pea puree and a crispy and pomme mille feuille.
Long Island duck was with roasted shallot puree, chanterelle mushrooms, and pickled gooseberries.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
Ursino
1075 Morris Ave
Union
908-249-4099
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CORN HARVEST DINNER AT THE RYLAND INN, WHITEHOUSE STATION
A five-course Celebration of the Corn Harvest dinner paired with wine will be held at The Ryland Inn, 115 Old Highway 28, Whitehouse Station. Executive chef Anthony Bucco will present the following dinner:
Canapés ‘n’ Whiskey Punch
Chilled corn soup with Cape May oyster, domestic caviar, and garden herbs
(Marques De Gelida Cava Rose of Pinot Noir)
Fresh Corn Polenta, Pan-Roasted Tile Fish, Mangalitsa Bacon, and Summer Truffle
(Pascal Jolivet Sancerre)
Corn succotash, Griggstown chicken with locally foraged mushrooms
(Hitachino Nest White Ale)
Corn “béarnaise” with flatiron steak and potato salad
(Noble Tree Cabernet Sauvignon)
Corn & white chocolate panna cotta and pistachio cake, lemon verbena ice cream
(Bourbon Crème De La Crème)
6:30; $99, plus tax and gratuity. Reservations: 908-534-4011.
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BLUE MOREL, MORRISTOWN
On August 22, a five-course New Jersey Harvest dinner with wines will be held at Blue Morel Restaurant and Wine Bar, Westin Governor Morris Hotel, 2 Whippany Road, Morristown. The following dishes will be presented:
Tomato and watermelon salad, balsamic jelly, chili caviar
(Rose Alba Vineyard 2011 Milford, NJ)
Sweet corn soup, Mangalitsa guanciale, pickled watermelon rind
(Chardonnay Alba Vineyard 2011 Milford, NJ)
Grilled Barnegat scallop, burnt-lemon torpedo onion jam, roasted squash and fava bean pozole
(Eureka Blend Unionville Vineyards 2012 Ringoes, NJ)
Readington Farms bison tenderloin, Oak Grove Mill chanterelle polenta, grilled lettuce, Uncle Bill’s Farm egg
(Big O Unionville Vineyards 2010 Ringoes, NJ)
Terhune Orchards peaches, honey brioche, preserved lemon & cardamom sherbet
(Atlantic County Vidal Blanc Ice Wine Tomasello Winery 2012 Hammonton, NJ)
7 PM; $69, inclusive of food and wine; tax and gratuity additional. Reservations 973-451-2619 or by e-mail to [email protected].
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THE MANISCHEWITZ RECIPE & HOLIDAY GUIDE FREE APP
You don’t have to be Jewish or Kosher to benefit from the Manischewitz app, which is now available in beta for all Apple® and Android™ devices. Chefs, cookbook authors, everyday home cooks, as well as recipes from finalists and winners from past Man-O-Manischewitz Cook-Off Contests have been included. Whether you are looking for a new or old favorite, recipes for Passover, Chanukah, Thanksgiving, Shabbat, Shavuot, gluten-free, everyday meals, lunches, side dishes, and desserts plus more are included. Download by searching for Manischewitz in the App Store for Apple® devices, and the Google Play Store for Android™ devices, or by visiting the respective stores at the links below:
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/manischewitz-recipe-holiday/id663920818?mt=8 (Apple)
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manischewitz.manischewitz&hl=en (Android)
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WILDWOOD RESTAURANT WEEK
Wildwood Restaurant Week will be held August 25 to August 30. Participating restaurants are offering four-course dinner for $30, plus tax and gratuity. Information: http://wildwoodbythesearestaurantweek.com/
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Please send press releases and restaurant news, including information on staff changes, wine tastings, and cooking classes, to [email protected].