DE NOVO EUROPEAN PUB, MONTCLAIR
Sit at the bar, one of the communal tables, or at a private table and order as little or as much as you want. There is something for everyone here. Starters include addictive bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with almonds, and Gorgonzola; grilled tender octopus with chorizo and potatoes; chopped house salad, cured meats, cheeses, or flatbreads. Do try the unique pears, bacon and blue cheese flatbread topped with arugula. With a glass of wine, beer or a cocktail any of the starters could be a light dinner. However, we were very hungry and ordered entrees and desserts.
We tried two pastas and recommend both; a spicy cavatelli puttanesca with anchovies, capers, olives, hot peppers and tomato sauce and our favorite of strozzapreti with roasted-garlic oil, shrimp, shitake mushrooms, sundried tomatoes, mustard greens and Parmigiano. We can mainline on braised short ribs and the version here were fork tender and served with one of our favorite sides, creamy soft polenta and Brussels sprout leaves. Tuna was beautifully presented, crusted with black-and-white sesame seeds and popped with flavor from the chipotle aioli and ginger soy-glazed asparagus. Can you believe that Lowell bypassed the herb-rubbed suckling pig for a spice-rubbed salmon with fingerling potatoes, portobello mushroom and escarole? He was not disappointed with this perfectly cooked fish, which for $20 was quite an impressive dish. Actually, the price point for all of our generous dishes was extremely reasonable with pastas and entrees ranging from $11 for a veggie burger to $23 for the tuna.
Desserts were not missed as they are always part of the dining journey. A brownie topped with salted caramel gelato; pear-almond galette with cinnamon gelato, a favorite at our table; flourless chocolate cake with mint gelato; and white-chocolate raspberry cheesecake were well executed and made in-house by pastry consultant Risa Magid.
De Novo is on the right track. Do try it. Open daily from noon for lunch and dinner; Sundays from 4 PM.
Cavatelli puttanesca with anchovies, capers, olives, hot peppers and tomato sauce.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
De Novo European Pub
Upper Montclair Train Station
275 Bellevue Avenue
Upper Montclair
973-893-5008.
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