PEONY PAVILION, PRINCETON
Patrons put down their chopsticks and ogled as dramatically plated sushi, sashimi and rolls were placed on our table at Peony Pavilion in Princeton. This course was presented in a large, deep, white bowl filled with chopped ice in which a tall abstract sculpture had been placed. The fish was as impressive as the presentation and was just one of the palatable and visually notable courses we had at this press dinner.
Sushi, sashimi and rolls.
Photo courtesy of Karen J. Irvine
Peony Pavilion, which features classic Japanese and Asian fusion dishes, was opened last November by Lisa Shao. Shao grew up in Szechuan Province and also owns Szechuan House in Hamilton Township. The peony motif is found throughout the restaurant: carved in wood screens etched in long, red cylinders and on plates hanging on the walls. Prints from performances of the sixteenth-century opera, The Peony Pavilion also decorate the space. Attention to the décor is also observed in the bathrooms: the men’s room has a bright-blue glass vessel sink; the ladies room has a black vessel sink decorated with tiny flowers and a carp; both are stunning. Equal thought is given to the food under the direction of master sushi chef Yoshi, formerly of Sakura in New York City.
Entrance to Peony Pavilion.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
In addition to the sushi, regular Japanese menu items, Asian-fusion cuisine and dim sum are offered on weekends, and we concentrated on that part of the menu except for a serving of tender, smoked-tea duck which is part of the Asian-fusion menu. Starters were a congee, a rice porridge often eaten for breakfast. We would have eaten ours at any meal. It was made with pork and silky, preserved egg enhanced with thinly sliced ginger and reminded us of a thick chicken-rice soup, but better. Fried crab dumplings were accompanied by a spicy mustard-y sauce and, as with all of the fried dishes, none were oily. Two different delicate steamed buns were shared; barbecued pork bun and a bun with a sweet-ish, golden-filled mixture of pureed lotus-seed paste and egg. The latter taste and texture reminded us of sweet potato. Chunks of shrimp were embedded in the crispy bean-curd skin rolls and creamy, fried eggplant stuffed with pork was scattered with scallions. We placed the soup dumplings into a spoon, dribbled on a vinegar-y soy sauce and popped them into our mouths as not to lose the juice inside; scrumptious. Dim sum here is not mass produced or wheeled around in a cart, but each dish is ordered from a menu, allowing it to be delivered hot to the table, a most appreciated difference. For dessert, a trio of three brueles were presented: coffee, green tea and vanilla. Some other menu items include tempura, teriyaki, rice, noodle, fish, steak and lamb. Bento Boxes are available for lunch. Peony Pavilion is open daily.
Bean-curd skin rolls filled with shrimp.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
Peony Pavilion
15 Farber Road
Princeton
609-580-1850
BYO
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