RESTAURANT LATOUR, HAMBURG
Can Restaurant Latour at Crystal Springs Resort in Hamburg become the “French Laundry” of New Jersey or the east coast? With the new chef de Latour, Jean Paul Lourdes, it is very possible that this destination restaurant will be on the culinary map. Lourdes has worked at Pierre Gagnaire’s Michelin three-star restaurant, Maison Pic in Valence, France; Tetsuya in Sydney; Joël Robuchon in Tokyo; Shangri-La Hotels in Beijing, Hong Kong and Toronto; Nihonryori-Ryugin in Tokyo and in recipe development at Buddakan and Morimoto. We are thrilled that this very talented chef has chosen to come to New Jersey. Additionally, it is always exciting when a dinning experience is also a learning experience. We were impressed that we were introduced to new foods and creative dishes at this press dinner—each item outdoing the next—and sorry when the meal ended, as it was such a memorable experience. The menu changes each day the restaurant is open, and more local ingredients will be used once the Chef’s Garden starts producing.
Chef de Latour, Jean Paul Lourdes plating in the kitchen.
Two tasting menus are offered: a vegetarian, Farmer’s Feast menu and a Grazing menu; both are gluten free and $95 for five course ($55 for beverage pairing) and $125 for seven courses ($65 for beverage pairing). We opted for one of each and had the opportunity to taste 14 items and experience the chef’s expertise in creating two different tasting menus which were a gustatory delight. Portions are small and while sated we did not feel overstuffed at the end of the meal. It also helps that both menus were gluten free. Service is exceptional. The waitstaff are gracious and unobtrusive, sometimes we did not realize that they were at our table until we noticed the new silverware. Every need was anticipated during our leisurely dinner and each dish described and questions thoroughly answered. Kudos to the restaurant also for putting their extensive 290 page wine list on an easy to use iPad.
Here are a few of the highlights from the Farmer’s Feast and Grazing menu:
A tray of sliced lemons, limes and cucumber were offered with our water. Sweet and salted butter accompanied the chewy and crusty sour dough bread which takes 3 to 4 days to rise from natural yeast on the apples, pears and grapes in the bakery.
A creative amuse of black olive Oreo filled with Devon cream and finished with Parmesan cheese paired with a French champagne gave us a hint of the innovative dishes we would experience at this dinner.
Amuse of black olive Oreo.
Whole Mallemort (French) asparagus and smoky asparagus puree were topped with small chips of freeze dried asparagus and surrounded with cream; spring in a bowl. Pairing was an Alvarinho from Portugal.
Our senses were on alert when a mixture of turnips both pickled or cooked in aromatic Arabic coffee and turnip puree were presented in a bowl that had a smear of coffee which we were told to swipe the turnips in. This was paired with a 2012 Gewurztraminer from Italy.
Turnips with a smear of coffee.
Color was added to many of the dishes with edible flowers such as nasturtiums, nettles, and day lily and one whimsical creation was cream of cauliflower with jasmine flower emulsion topped with dried vegetables; an attention getting dish. A French Bandol Rose 2012 paired beautifully with this dish.
Sudachi, a citrus fruit from Japan and smoky onion ash created earthy well balanced flavors with wild foraged mushrooms. A Savigny-les Beaune 2003 Pinot Noir from Burgundy, France accompanied this dish.
Latour mushrooms with ash.
International ingredients showed up again in the line caught delicate sea bream flown in from Tokoyo with Cevennes (French) onion and Mauritian pink pepper paired with a Russian River 2009 Chardonnay.
Juicy sous vide poulet roti from Lancaster, PA with Swiss chard and a red lemon, marmalade. A 2008 Rioja was poured.
Tender Miyazaki beef, considered the highest quality beef from Japan, with mushrooms and citrus was served with Hermitage Rouge Rhone 2006, France.
Beef with mushrooms and citrus.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
Goat cheese marshmallow toasted with a torch and containing five fragrant different varieties of basils was sensational. Wine with this dish was a 2009 Merlot, Maipo Alto, Chile.
Wild berries cooked in mulled wine with whipped maraschino cherry cream was matched with a sour cherry wine, Vino di Visciole, Marche, Italy. A plate of chocolates was a perfect ending to a flawless meal.
Consider dining here for a special occasion and if possible stay the night. We love rolling up to our room after an exceptional dinner and wine. Restaurant Latour is open Thursday 5 to 9 PM; Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 PM; and Sunday for brunch from 11AM to 3 PM. For reservations call 855-977-6473 Ext 3.
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