GRISSINI RISTORANTE, ENGLEWOOD CLIFFS
Attention to details may be one of the reasons that Grissini, an upscale restaurant that has been open 21 years, is still pulling in the crowds. Along with high quality cuisine and attentive service, we had a most impressive press dinner here.
Upon entering the restaurant, our eyes zoomed in on an area by the open kitchen where there was a display of red peppers, portobello mushrooms, bread from Balthazar, a large wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, oranges, lemons and tomatoes. A waiter was cutting fresh bread and assembling a plate of cheese and Italian salami that is placed on each table when diners are seated.
Fruit, vegetables, cheese and bread display.
Wine was ordered—be forewarned that there are few choices under $100—and then decanted by GM Enzo Lentini, a most congenial man. Specials were written out with their prices. A stuffed artichoke with colossal crabmeat was revved up with a light, warm, lemon vinaigrette—scrumptious. Three salads with exemplary ingredients were tried: watercress, endive and gorgonzola with roasted walnuts and Julianne pears in a champagne vinaigrette; classic Caesar (if you want anchovies, ask for them); and an arugula, endive, radicchio with artichokes, and hearts of palm in a balsamic vinaigrette. All were solid light starters. The charred, tender-grilled calamari with chickpeas sprinkled around the plate, was one of the best renditions of this dish that we have had in a long time.
Grilled calamari.
Entrees got a 10 on the Safersteins’ scorecard. Large chunks of sweet sausage were paired with chicken on the bone in the pollo scarparello. It was a hearty comforting dish, as was the squid-ink pasta swimming with assorted seafood in a spicy fra diavolo sauce. A lemon-butter and capers sauce enriched two large and meaty soft shell crabs that topped a bed of spinach. The meatiness of the crabs reaffirmed executive chef Carlo Apolloni and owner Tony Del Gatto’s commitment to the use of quality ingredients. Grilled, tender skirt steak, cooked medium rare as requested, was accompanied by fries and an arugula salad. There were a few menu items worth noting: two or three pastas options can be picked as an entrée, a great option if you cannot decide which ones to try; and on Sunday a traditional homemade meatballs and pasta special is offered.
Considering the quality of the appetizers and entrees, desserts were not distinctive except for the tableside preparation of zabaglione, which is what we would recommend that you try for dessert. Laced with Marsala the custard was poured into a large glasses of lush berries and was sumptuous. Tiramisu, chocolate cake and ricotta cheesecake are made in-house, while other items were from Bindi, which is not consistent with the quality of the other foods served here.
**Note: The following changes have occurred at Grissini since Rosie’s visit:
As of July 28, executive chef Carlo Apolloni is no longer with Grissini Ristorante. He has been replaced by Giuseppe Lentini. Lentini was at Elio’s for 22 years, then at Lentini (with his brother, Enzo Lentini, who is maitre’d and manager at Grissini’s), and then Due, all in NYC. The menu will remain the same with added daily specials.
Grissini is open for lunch Monday through Friday and dinner daily.
Skirt steak.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
Grissini Ristorante
484 Sylvan Avenue,
Englewood Cliffs
201-568-3535
DINING DEALS
HAVEN, EDGEWATER
A three-course sunset menu with choices is being offered by Haven Restaurant and Bar, 2 Main Street (for GPS, put 45 River Road), Edgewater Harbor, Edgewater for $45 from Monday through Friday, from 5 to 7 PM. Menu items include: yellowfin tuna tartare with avocado, seaweed crisps, soy mirin, and spicy yuzu vinaigrette; chicken “taco” spring rolls with queso fresco, black beans, bacon jam, and lime; seafood risotto with black rice, lobster, sea scallops, shrimp, sea beans, sweet corn, and marscapone; grilled hanger steak with oxtail mushroom cannelloni, spring onions, crispy brioche, and truffle sauce blanc; salted caramel ice cream sundae with malt foam, chocolate granola, peanuts, butterscotch; and chocolate croissant bread pudding with vanilla sabayon and Kentucky bourbon. Reservations: 201-943-1900.
PAIRINGS, CRANFORD
Every Wednesday through the summer Pairings Palate + Plate, 1 South Ave, East, Cranford offers a four-course menu for $35. Reservations: 908-276-4026.
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