LA COURONNE, MONTCLAIR
We dined at La Couronne twenty years ago, when it first opened, and it has taken us twenty years to return. Restaurant news comes across my desk daily, but I never heard any buzz on this place. Postings on Facebook were: “It’s around the corner. Never been.” “Always wondered about that place” or “Used to go there years ago.” We decided that it was time for a visit. Also, being open twenty years is an achievement in the restaurant industry with fickle patrons, low margins of profitability and all the other myriad of problems a restaurateur encounters.
What did we find? Service was so-so with “Who gets the pasta?” and other dishes being auctioned off, although specials were written with the prices, except for two additional ones that were recited without the prices. The space reminded us of eating at our great-grandmother’s house. Norman Rockwell pictures on the walls, fake flowers throughout the restaurant, and dark lighting and colors created a somber dreary ambiance. We think that the food may show better in a bright, modern setting. Prices were moderate.
Bread was unremarkable but starters were impressive, especially the crispy sausage, peppers, white beans and broccoli rabe, which would have us returning to La Couronne just for this dish. Salads—a tomato, onion and blue cheese; mixed greens; arugula with tomatoes and onions and a highly recommended special of avocado, asparagus, red pepper and romaine—were fresh, beautifully dressed and enjoyed. Three entrees stood out: a special of fork-tender pork osso buco surrounded by a full-bodied sauce made with carrots, zucchini, red peppers, onions and mushrooms; a large portion of filet of sole oreganata; and a spicy linguine arabiata tossed with rock shrimp, red pepper flakes and parsley in an extra virgin olive oil and garlic, white wine sauce. Calves liver, which is not often seen on menus, was cooked properly but lacked salt. While the veal in the veal Marsala was tender, the dish was over sauced. Linguine in red clam sauce had an off taste. Except for tiramisu, crème brulee and biscotti, desserts are brought in. We opted for biscotti and while we had a pleasant enough dinner it may be another twenty years before we return.
Pork osso buco
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
La Couronne
23 Watchung Plaza
Montclair
BYO
973-744-2090
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