VILLALOBOS, MONTCLAIR
Viva Villalobos, the newly opened restaurant in Montclair offering innovative traditional Mexican food with chef/owner Adam Rose at the helm. At a recent press dinner, we had everything from corn tortillas to tacos to churros and my favorite vegetable: chocolate.
Upon entering “el restaurante,” designed by the chef/owner Adam Rose’s sister, Ashley A Rose of Ashley A Rose Designs. Our attention was drawn to the black hexagonal tile-top bar near the open kitchen. There are hooks on the bar’s underside to hang your purse—always a nice touch. The thoughtful aesthetic continues with metal chairs, slate floors, metal pendant lighting, rectangular slanted mirrors, commissioned paintings, Oaxacan pottery vases and the fresh tropical flowers and plants. The place is colorful and visually pleasing with seating for 50. Check out the red cooler on the back wall, which is used to chill your beer. The restaurant is BYO however aqua frescas, slushies, michelada mixes for your beer and Mexican sodas are available.
We started with two guacamoles: one was with smoked tomatillo and sea urchin the other a traditional preparation with jalapeno, cilantro and tomato. Both had chunks of creamy avocado and a slight bite. Combining lime, lemon and orange juice created a tingle while fresno chile and jalapenos added heat in the ceviche that was made with extremely fresh red snapper with squash blossom. Roasted corn off the cob was deliciously spicy, smoky and refreshingly different as were all of the dishes we tasted. With eight tacos to choose from, we could not pick a favorite. Adventurous eaters may want to opt for the beef tongue, chipotle and pistachio taco; vegetarians for the poblano, corn, maitake and queso fresco taco; fish lovers for the beer battered fish, cabbage and Serrano crema taco or meat lovers for the barbequed beef rib, pickled carrot and avocado taco. And of course, there is a cola-braised pork belly, which we adored, corn, cotija and ancho taco. Tacos are priced at $3 or $4 so enjoy one of each! Lowell usually steers himself toward pork, but when rabbit is on the menu he hops to that. Braised in an Oaxacan green mole, this dish was robust and popped with flavor. If you are not as exploratory the grilled brook trout with leeks, potatoes and vinegar is a highly recommended dish with lively flavors. Although nine varieties of indigenous chiles are used throughout the menu, we never found any of the dishes to be uncomfortablly hot or spicy, but rather each one had exciting balances of flavors and textures.
Guacamole with smoked tomatillo and sea urchin.
While the churros—long fried doughnuts covered with Mexican cinnamon and sugar—were exemplary and a perfect ending to our dinner, the stone-ground chocolate sauce was so exceptional that I ate it with my spoon. I was too embarrassed to ask for a second portion.
Villalobos is open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner. Lunch items include salads, tortas, tacos and more. We loved the whole enchilada. Be forewarned, the restaurant is beyond noisy. Viva Villalobos!
Grilled shrimp tacos.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
Villalobos
6 South Fullerton Avenue
Montclair
BYO
973-337-6667
RUNA, RED BANK
Runa, a Peruvian restaurant at 110 Monmouth St, Red Bank ((732-758-8904); BYO. Some menu items include: ceviches; empanadas; pan fried rice and beans cake with local seasonal vegetables; stir fried loin tips with tomato and onions; and pollo a la brasa marinated in Peruvian spices.
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