WASHINGTON HOUSE, BASKING RIDGE
The three-story Washington House, built circa 1871 as the Washington House Hotel, originally had a 25-seat dining room, 16 rooms and stables for 18 horses. This venue—beautifully restored with a glass-enclosed wine wall at its entrance, large bar area and comfy dining rooms, including one with a fireplace— serves exceptional food. Actually, we were impressed with this restaurant even before we had dinner because of the wine list and it’s pricing. More on that later.
We started with shrimp and grits, a favorite that was just as good there as the dish we had in South Carolina. Crisp, collard-green chips impaled the grits creating a striking multi-textured plate. A grilled, summer-vegetable salad was jam-packed with zucchini, bell pepper, red onion, shaved ricotta salata and dressed with a red-wine vinaigrette. Salmon tartare got its oomph from preserved lemon, sweet peppers, and spicy, chive puree. Not to be missed, if available, with beautifully balanced flavors, was a refreshing summer peach and lobster salad that contained avocado, rice crisps and almond mousse.
The Washington House uses quality ingredients, such as bread from Balthazar, meat from DeBragga and Spitler, a company that dry ages and custom cuts the finest, mostly naturally raised meats and has a reputation for being one of the best meat purveyors in the industry. (Lowell and I toured their Jersey City plant last year, where we viewed and tasted their excellent products). Therefore I opted for the Niman Ranch rib eye from DeBragga which came with an added bonus of an accordion-fanned hasselback potato, crisp on the outside, creamy on the inside and with al dente string beans. The meat was perfectly cooked medium rare, juicy, tender and charred on the outside from the wood-burning grill; everything a steak should be. Of course Lowell opted for the boneless premium Duroc pork chop, another product from DeBragga and Spitler, which was paired with warm barley salad, mint and vibrant grilled peach chutney. This mouthwatering, rich-flavored piece of meat served medium rare was so soft and luxurious that brining was not necessary before it was cooked. The peach chutney highlighted the chefs’ commitment to using seasonal ingredients some of which are sourced from Cooperative 518, Princeton. Friends had a flavorful “Washington burger” and a rosemary pappardelle with braised lamb, mushrooms, roasted vegetables, shaved Parmigiano and local greens, both of which were also crowd pleasers.
Rib-eye steak from DeBragga and Spitler.
Along with the lovely ambiance, attentive service, and culinary delights, the wine list was price friendly with very little markup. GM Marc Hudacsko said, “We want a wine list priced to sell.” Both a La Cana, Albarino, Riaz Baixas ’12 and a Turley Bechtoldt Vineyard, Cinsault, Lodi ’12 were $38; a Staglin Estate Chardonnay, $105; and a Gaja Brunello di Montelcino, Tuscany ‘09 was $108. The menu states that their “wine list has a variety of popular selections, as well as hard-to-find gems, all at unprecedented value.” Very true. When possible ingredients for the cocktails are made in house. For example, onions for a Dirty Gibson are brined in house with the onion juice used in the cocktail; house-made Irish crème and Nutella are also available. The signature cocktails have whimsical names such as Washington’s Crossings made with Redemption rye, Giifard Crème de Peche and lemon or Luca Brasi Sleeps with the Fishes created with Lazzaroni Amaretto, Averna, Lemon, Black Walnut Bitters and egg white.
The menu is also notable in that the names of the staff, from the executive chef to the dishwasher, are listed. How thoughtful because everyone is an important part of the operation and how lovely to be recognized and appreciated for your job. Executive chef Crawford Koeniger previously worked as sous-chef in Roots Steak House in Summit, The Pluckemin Inn in Bedminster and most recently Eno Terra in Princeton. Some of the fish options on his contemporary American menu are organic Scottish salmon with celery-root puree, caramelized onion, grilled lettuce and citrus crème fraiche; coriander-rubbed tuna with grilled mushrooms, mustard greens and fennel puree; and day-boat scallops with Maitake mushrooms, roasted-eggplant puree and Swiss chard.
Executive chef Crawford Koeniger.
Of course, we had desserts, which are made in house by pastry chef Christine McGrath, who previously worked at the Pluckemin Inn, Eno Terra, Witherspoon Bread Company and Cocoluxe Fine Pastries. Death by chocolate sundae with brownie pieces, chocolate sauce and whipped cream was delightfully decadent and a chocoholics dream. A bursting-with-flavor frozen blueberry pie with caramel corn and a dish of berries n’ cream were both lush and fortified us for our ride home.
Frozen blueberry pie with caramel corn.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
The Washington House is open for lunch daily from 11:30 AM and dinner from 5 PM. The bar is open until midnight. We drank and ate very well here and look forward to a return visit. Keep an eye on executive chef Crawford Koeniger. We predict that his talents will not go unnoticed.
Washington House
55 South Finley Ave
Basking Ridge
908-766-7610