Chefs in the News

Rapid Fire with...Chef Peter Turso of Ursino.

Rosie will be on vacation until mid-February—guest blogger Melody Kettle will post in her place.

The earliest indication that Peter Turso, 35, would become a chef came when he was 8–years–old. On Mother’s Day, Turso drafted a brunch menu, then turned the wooden family sofa upside down to imitate a restaurant high-top table. Inclination soon became vocation when the New Brunswick native, graduated the Culinary Institute of America in 2001, and began his first externship in Colorado. Turso returned to New Jersey, where he worked at some of New Jersey’s most acclaimed restaurants. Between Restaurant Nicholas and Restaurant David Drake, Turso spent a year working in research and development for a Japanese company that manufactured food stocks, sauces and flavors. In 2010, Turso took his first executive chef position at Ursino, which after a year of consultation and preparation, opened it’s doors in October 2011 to rave reviews.

Was it a natural choice for you to become a chef or did you consider other paths?
I feel this profession chooses the individual. It seemed as if it was a natural progression for me.

What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef?
A professional photographer, Navy SEAL, or a recording artist.

Of all the restaurants you’ve worked in, who has been the most influential on your ethos and cuisine?
That’s a hard one; I’ll give three in no particular order: Nicholas Harary, David Drake, Manuel Perez.

Do you recommend formal culinary education?

It comes down to the individual. I’ve seen individuals with backgrounds flourish—the only difference is the one who didn’t go to school isn’t in debt.

What is the greatest honor/compliment you’ve received as a chef thus far?
From my patrons. Sometimes, when I put together a new dish I know is really good, I’ll watch them take the first bite. It goes like this: the taste, a pause, eye contact with the person they are eating with, and then a smile, and a head nod.

Do you have any passions or hobbies outside the kitchen? Do you garden? Do you fish? Do you hunt?
Snowboarding, guitar/recording music, photography, dirtbike, horticulture, hiking, running, and laughing.

What was your most memorable meal?

My 31st birthday dinner in Yountville at Bouchon. I was staging at TFL (The French Laundry), and crashing at Francis Coppola’s Place (vineyard) with my girlfriend. Prior to going out for dinner, he let me have a extensive wine tasting in his cellar. The food was great but it was the whole scenario that still seems like a dream.

Is there one ingredient you refuse to use in the kitchen?
Sour cream and Blue Cheese.

What ingredient or technique are you most excited about right now?
Dehydration through sublimation, old grains, and anything non-GMO.

What trend are you excited about? 
Fermentation.

What trend is over?
The whole 50 different types of Himalayan sea salt craze. What was that all about?

What was your worst cooking-related injury?
A weld on a pot broke and my hand was washed over by boiling water and my entire hand was burned for a couple weeks. (Still went to work the next day.)

Favorite childhood dish? 
French Toast my father made me for breakfast.

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New Winter Menu and Small-Plate Sundays at Terre a Terre in Carlstadt

Chef Todd Villani, owner and chef of Terre a Terre in Carlstadt, began a new winter menu on January 21st. According to Villani, “[W]e’re really excited about New Jersey’s culinary scene. There are some dedicated growers and food artisans that are pushing the envelope on locally grown. For example, our partner Blue Moon Acres Farm in Pennington is now growing organic rice; they are, in fact, the only farm to grow rice in New Jersey, and in 2013, Blue Moon Acres produced the first organic commercially grown brown rice in the history of our state."

The new winter menu will feature first courses like Berkshire Black Nicolosi Pork Rillette with a house-made kimchi slaw ($16) and Goffle Road Farm braised yard-bird pot pie with winter-dug root vegetables ($15). New second course menu items include Hop Devil IPA braised short rib with heb spaetzle roasted Cippolini onions and horseradish cream ($31), and, a show stopper, the Elysian Field Farms lamb chops with spiced grit cake, kohlrabi puree, braised endive, and hibiscus and mint demi.

With a focus on keeping one step ahead of food trends, Terre a Terre features specially blended teas—not only in the teacup but in its cuisine. They have partnered with Hackensack-based Tavalon Tea, which specializes in developing unique tea blends with an emphasis on pushing tea back into the spotlight, as seen with the new menu item, Painted Arctic Char prepared with tea-smoked wheat berries, carrot confit, and citrus gastrique.

“The changing culinary role of tea develops from the notion that it is more than an after meal or an afterthought,” explains Villani. “We’re exploring all ways to incorporate tea into our menu—from tea-infused cocktails to tea and food pairings—and we’re tapping into the unique flavors that the tea leaves bring to a dish.”

Terre a Terre will also begin Small Plate Sundays on February 8th. Half portion of any menu item, all half-price half bottles of New Jersey wine as well from 4 to 8 PM. 312 Hackensack St, Carlstadt, 201-507-0500.

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January 26 – 29 and February 2 – 5
Samba Montclair’s 4th Anniversary: Free Dessert Trio

New Jersey’s most authentic home-style Brazilian dining experience, Samba Montclair, is marking its 4th anniversary in the sweetest of ways. For two weeks only (January 26-29 and February 2-5) dinner guests will enjoy complimentary dessert as a special thank you from owner Ilson Goncalves and his team. "When I opened Samba, my dream was to present the food I grew up enjoying in my native Brazil," says Goncalves. "Our gift to customers is a thank you to the community for their support. Restaurants come and go, I know, but Montclair has supported me for four years and I’m very grateful." The featured dessert will actually be a trio of popular items from Samba’s dessert menu: Passion Fruit Mousse, Coconut Pudding with Prune Sauce and Chocolate Mousse. 7 Park St, Montclair, 973-744-6764.

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