It took the Safersteins three tries to get into this tiny, reservation-only, 27-seat restaurant. Was it worth the wait? Yes and no.
Caffe Anello (Italian for coffee ring), which offers dinner from Tuesday through Saturday, is entered through the adjoining Sogno Coffeehouse and Creperie, where a sign reads: “Coffee keeps you busy until it’s time to drink wine.” We walked through the drape separating the two establishments and found an open kitchen, where chef/owner John Vitale and his staff can be seen preparing the meals.
We started with a piece of hot, crunchy garlic bread accompanied by two sauces: tomato and pesto; a nice change from olive oil. We told our waiter that we would share the Bucatini All’ Amatriciana, a classic spicy Italian dish named after the town of Amatrice in Italy. It consists of freshly made pasta, pancetta, caramelized onions, Pecorino Romano, homemade tomato sauce and cracked black pepper. The sauce and pasta were delicious with well-balanced flavors, which we would have enjoyed more if the pasta and sauce were piping hot rather than lukewarm and we would have preferred if dish was split in the kitchen.
Same could be said of a special of pan-seared filet of halibut presented with a garlic, orange, champagne, lemon, and paprika sauce accompanied with roasted potatoes and charred garlic broccoli rabe. The fish was fresh tasting but cold, as were the sides. The same cold sides were served with the eggplant parm but this entrée was served at the correct temperature and was flavorful. We were told that the desserts were made in house and the large portion of creamy Banana’s Foster cheesecake was perfect except for the overly sweetened whipped cream.
A few of the other entrée options are: 28-day, dry-aged club cut rib-eye topped with pancetta and caramelized Vidalia onions; Tuscan country pork chop which is pounded thin, lightly breaded and topped with pancetta, onion relish and a balsamic glaze; and chicken Anello, a bone-in, butterflied free-range chicken breast that is breaded, pan seared and then smothered in a homemade mozzarella and topped with a homemade pomodoro sauce.
Service was very friendly in that Joe, the chef’s father-in-law chatted with diners and kept an eagle eye on the room to be sure that everyone was happy. He seemed to know many of the diners and was one of the most gracious hosts we have encountered in a restaurant. Water was refilled and silverware replaced, but specials were recited without their prices. The room is dated with pine walls, shelves for people to leave their bottles and music, which added to the noise, level.
Many locals dine at this Italian neighborhood restaurant and it is worth a visit if you can get a reservation. Just ask that your food be served hot.
Caffé Anello
425 Broadway
Westwood
201-786-8137
BYO
Bucatini All’ Amatriciana
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
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