Something’s smoking in downtown Montclair.
Pineapple Express Barbecue, which soft-opened last summer for the Montclair Jazz Fest, is now a fully-functioning barbecue spot, beer garden and cocktail joint. The space even offers gluten-free food.
“We have families at the beginning of the night, people on a date in the middle of the night and, at the end of the night, people who want something to eat and drink a lot,” Damon Wise says. Wise is co-partner in the venture with Lauren Hirschberg, chef/owner of Turtle + the Wolf, which opened in 2015 in the northern part of town and is one of New Jersey Monthly’s favorite restaurants in Montclair.
Located in the old railroad station at Lackawanna Plaza, Pineapple Express is atmospheric with soaring ceilings, enormous chandeliers and historic detail. The long bar, with dozens of beer taps and bottles on display, creates a convivial vibe. There’s outdoor seating, which will expand when “the warm weather hits,” Hirschberg says.
Wise and Hirschberg, both chefs, worked in fine dining with Tom Colicchio at Craft in Manhattan and wanted to do something different. “We get to drop all the pretense and the white tablecloths,” Hirschberg says.
Décor and drinks aside, the food is the draw. There are barbecue staples like ribs, brisket and pulled pork, but fried chicken and vegetarian and gluten-free options help Pineapple Express stand out. Wise has Celiac disease, so creating a restaurant with options for all eaters was important.
“Our whole mantra is balance, he says. “Give people what they want and be creative in the same thread.” The entire menu is gluten-free, with the exception of burger buns and bread.
“We have access to great vegetables, and when you add them we get a different demographic,” Wise says. “There are vegetarians who want to come to a barbecue restaurant.”
It appears the veggies are holding their own. Hirschberg says Pineapple Express actually sells out of rotisserie cauliflower.
“The amount of cauliflower we’ve sold already is incredible,” Wise adds with a laugh.
Hirschberg, who grew up in Montclair, lives in Bloomfield with his family. Wise, originally from Baltimore, moved to Montclair last year with his wife and child.
Lackawanna Plaza is percolating. The owner of the parcel, David Placek, recently announced plans for redevelopment. Hirschberg and Wise say they feel “stable,” despite the pending development, and “good” about their relationship with Placek.
“Barbecue really brings people together,” Wise says. “All different kinds of people. It’s great.”
“We’re really just bringing people in, having a party,” Hirschberg agrees.
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