Rosé’s Revival

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Back in the ’80s, white zinfandel from California became a fad—the louche leader of the easy-drinking category called blush wines. Through guilt by association, blush wines nearly killed off interest in a category of crisp, sunset-hued wines with deep history and real character: rosés.

Now rosés, a refreshing summer staple, are enjoying a huge revival. Brian Hider, director of wine at the Pluckemin Inn in Bedminster, stocks two dozen rosés on his lengthy list. “There are a lot of reasons,” he says. “The quality is up; there are a plethora of very good ones under $25, retail; they don’t need aging; there’s a range of styles; and they’re very versatile. Rosés go with just about anything, from burgers to oysters.”

Rosé is made from red grapes whose skins are mingled with the juice, though not long enough to make a red. Rosés are fashioned from many types of red grapes in many regions. The wine’s character is determined by the type of grape, the winemaking process and the length of time the juice stays in contact with the crushed skins. Rosés can very in color from straw to pink to peach to almost red.  Their crisp acidity and light body make them perfect  for summer.

The most acclaimed come from France and Italy. Chris Wanamaker, sommelier of Caffé Aldo Lamberti in Cherry Hill, calls Provence, in southern France, “the cradle of rosé. The thing you want in a Provence rosé is unripe strawberry, slightly bitter peach flavors and garrigue”—notes of rosemary, thyme, lavender and juniper. Sparkling rosé is a fascinating subcategory all its own.

As for pairings, Wanamaker says the paler the color, the better the rosé should complement raw bar faves like shrimp, clams and oysters. But, he attests, “A darker, full-bodied rosé with chicken parmesan? There’s nothing better than that.”

Nonetheless, he sees no need to scapegoat good ole white zin. “All wine has a context,” he says. “White zin actually tastes pretty good with Taco Bell.”

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