Emma in Englewood Offers Appealing Atmosphere, Disappointing Entrees

Emma offers innovative cuisine and could fill a niche for something different. The food, however, needs to equal the tempting menu descriptions.

EMMA, ENGLEWOOD
Emma, which opened in February, is a cute storefront restaurant. Upon entering, you pass through a long hallway with a colorful mural of a woman exhaling different colored diamond shapes—fairy dust according to our server. The dining room is painted bright turquoise. Ball jars holding candles are attached to wooden planks on one wall and a comfy couch and coffee table with candles beckons those who have to wait for a table.

The menu is small with Latin and American options. When seated, instead of bread we received warm pita with three colorful dips: hummus, vibrant beet yogurt and a watercress, all of which provided an interesting start. Apps were scrumptious creamy corn and caramelized empanadas with a chimichurri dipping sauce; chicken and egg salad containing crisp chicken confit with beans, quinoa, arugula and a poached egg; a beautifully plated ensalada Rusa with mixed greens, diced carrots, potatoes, peas, poached egg, cornichon and crisp Jamon Serrano. A most unusual appetizer was the butternut squash soup with toasted pumpkin seeds surrounding a dollop of mashed potatoes embedded with two rectangles of bacon and chives. The soup was presented with small ramikins of marshmallows and chocolate on the side which, once added to the soup, enhanced its sweetness. It worked for us, but may not work for you.

Entrees were disappointing. The skirt steak was served lukewarm. This dish was accompanied by humongous grilled asparagus and mashed potatoes, surrounded by a chimichurri emulsion. Herb-brined chicken was juicy, but the butternut squash puree was cold. Quinoa with dried apricots was appreciated as a not-often-seen starch. Crispy Brussels sprouts were on the plate along with why-are-they-here whole almonds listed on the menu as smoked, but without any smoky taste or smell. Also listed as smoked and charred was a Cod Asado, a stew that tasted like poached cod in a tomato sauce paired with potatoes and topped with fresh dill.

We inhaled dessert; it was that good. An ice cream sandwich made with pistachio cookies and filled with what we were told was wine mixed with vanilla ice cream (perhaps it was a sabayon) was surrounded by a chocolate Grand Marnier sauce and was the best dish of the evening.

Service is amateurish. The waiter sat and watched while we opened our wine. Plates were taken away before everyone at the table was finished and it was a “who gets what” auctioning off of plates for each course.

Emma Englewood Rosie
Warm pita with hummus, beet yogurt and watercress dips.

emma englewood rosie 2
Butternut squash soup.

Emma englewood rosie 3
Pistachio cookie ice cream sandwich.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein

Emma
34 E Palisade Ave
Englewood
201-227-6103
BYO

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