Food for Thought

Union Republic, Jersey City There was no stopping Noah Sexton. At a recent press dinner and cocktail exhibition, attorney-cum-bartender and co-owner of Jersey City’s industrial-hip eatery, Union Republic broke out a vacuum pot, a tea infuser and a bunsen burner. If that spirited lesson in lab equipment wasn’t enough, Sexton used a centrifuge the size of a Xerox machine to create an impossibly smooth parsnip juice for a cocktail appropriately named Harvey Parsnip.

MELODY KETTLE

Rosie will be on vacation until mid-February—guest blogger Melody Kettle will post in her place.

The other half of Union Republic ownership, chef Gregory Torrech, was on his game, too. We were surprised to see courses like sweetbread tortellini with parmesan brodo, at an eatery that offers six ramen bowls and a ramen burger. “We are all together,” said Torrech, explaining the creation of dishes that have roots the world over. Case in point, Nani’s pierogies. The pierogi was inspired by a recipe from Union Republic’s chef de cuisine’s grandmother. The elevated version of the Polish comfort food was topped with a crisp and tangy apple slaw. The thin dough was filled with a luxuriously creamy center of whipped potato and cottage cheese. A winner!

Another standout from the tasting menu was the butternut squash and uni soup, chock full of umami and wintry goodness. Other dishes included crusted and deep-fried pork jowl topped with a traditional deviled egg and house-cured duck bacon, and pan-seared tilefish with beets three ways. The sixth course featured a new ramen: crispy pork shrimp, with leeks, saffron aioli in a spicy broth. Dinner wrapped up with a crisp and marshmallowy house-made moon pie. 340 3rd St., Jersey City 201-279-5094.

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