Hoboken’s Antique Bar & Bakery: Delightful Italian Dishes in an Evocative Setting

Antique Bar & Bakery’s lobster pasta Photo: Courtesy of Antique Bar & Bakery

When I lived in Hoboken many years ago, I often walked past the iconic Antique Bakery on my way home from a night out. If it was late, the wonderful smell of baking bread wafting through the air drew me in. Sometimes, I’d stop and ask if I could buy some freshly baked bread, and the answer was usually yes. In my opinion, it was the best Italian bread in Hoboken.

It seems that even Frank Sinatra agreed. The story goes that Ol’ Blue Eyes himself, who grew up in Hoboken, later had the bakery’s Italian baguettes (he called them sticks) shipped regularly in suitcases to his new home in Palm Springs.

Photo: Courtesy of Antique Bar & Bakery

In 2015, the venerable bakery was purchased by restaurant impresarios who wanted to turn it into a restaurant and bar. Filmmaker Joseph Castelo, Bob Castelo, Christine Commesso and Rocco Ancarola (who died last year) preserved the 100-year-old Hoboken institution, saving the bakery and adding decor designed around their love for the 1970s. During the renovation, the owners kept many of the fittings, as well as the 400-square-foot, century-old brick oven. Tucked into the back corner of the restaurant, the 30-ton coal oven, which can exceed 2,000 degrees, is used to cook nearly every dish here.

The 400-square-foot, century-old brick oven. Photo: Courtesy of Antique Bar & Bakery

Antique Bar & Bakery is redolent with nostalgia, as many of the historical parts of the building have been kept intact. The entrance looks the same, but a long, wooden bar has been added, as well as two dining areas. The walls are covered with old photographs and movie posters, and inside one of the bathrooms, old films play on the wall. The strains of 1960s groups and Motown music can be heard over the sound of the diners.

Adding to the fun, vintage ambience, the menu is formatted like a film script, with the appetizers, entrées and desserts listed as a series of shots.

Butternut-squash rice balls Photo: Courtesy of Antique Bar & Bakery

The restaurant features classic Italian dishes, such as the Antique Meatball, a giant meatball served with ricotta, tomato sauce and a hunk of Antique’s classic Italian bread. It comes as an appetizer and doesn’t disappoint. The hot-oil shrimp is also delightful; it comes with three large prawns served over a spicy, hot sauce and more of the ubiquitous bread. My favorite starter? The butternut-squash rice balls, served with fresh mutz and a Calabrian marinara. They’re small and delicate, with just the right amount of salt.

Photo: Courtesy of Antique Bar & Bakery

For the entrées, mezzi rigatoni, served with chicken, sun-dried tomatoes and mushrooms in a creamy ‘nduja sauce, a classic Italian sauce traditionally made with pancetta and guanciale (a cured meat), fresh herbs and Calabrian red chilies, was spicy and satisfying. But barbacoa short ribs served over mashed potatoes were the show-stopper. The melt-in-your-mouth beef, succulent and delicious, fell right off the bone.

If you have room for dessert, don’t miss the Antique bread pudding, served with a gooey caramel sauce made with Tuaca caramel-flavored brandy. It’s the perfect ending to a delightful meal.

Photo: Courtesy of Antique Bar & Bakery

Late last year, the owners opened Antique at 112, just a few doors down from their flagship restaurant. This new spot, which they call a micro-diner, serves breakfast, lunch and casual dinners, such as lasagne bolognese and lobster pasta. Many of the (mostly Italian) dishes can be made gluten- or dairy-free as well.

And the famous bread? It’s still being made, but the bakery has been moved to a spot on Newark Avenue in Jersey City.

[RELATED: Hoboken’s Best Italian Bakeries, Delis and Restaurants]

HOW WE REVIEW: Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of New Jersey Monthly. These unstarred reviews of more casual restaurants are written after a critic visits once, with a guest; the magazine pays for these meals.

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