
Tucked away inside an independent bookstore in Montclair is a delightful little Italian restaurant that is as much of a draw for its ambience as its menu.
Sitting inside, with jazz playing softly in the background and shelves of books on the walls, I notice a couple walk in and take a moment to look around.
“This is so charming!” the woman exclaims. And she’s right.
From the friendly service to the black-and-white family photos to the chalkboard menu that hangs on the wall, this place is appealing. But people come here for the food, and that doesn’t disappoint.
Owner Carlo Orrico, a veteran chef who lives in Montclair, opened Da Pepo five years ago. It sits inside a building that also houses Watchung Booksellers. Da Pepo seats only about 22 people—but after the bookstore closes at night, tables and chairs are set up inside the bookstore proper for a magical experience. It feels as though you’ve hidden inside the place after closing and are clandestinely dining there.
From his tiny kitchen, Orrico creates alchemy with his food. Much of the menu consists of specials that change daily. “I’m a one-man operation,” he says.
Everything is made fresh daily. Start with the bruschetta; today, it’s made with lush maple-balsamic roasted peaches, whipped ricotta and a balsamic glaze. Most of the pasta is homemade. Don’t miss the gnocchi, which are soft and pillowy and served with fresh mozzarella, fresh tomato and basil pesto. For dessert, make sure to reserve the tiramisu as soon as you get there. It’s a small kitchen, and when they sell out, that’s it. But if you don’t get to try it, that’s a good reason to come back.
HOW WE REVIEW: Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of New Jersey Monthly. These unstarred reviews of more casual restaurants are written after a critic visits once, with a guest; the magazine pays for these meals.
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Restaurant Details
- Cuisine Type:Italian