La Fusta in North Bergen Is an Argentine Steak House Fit for a Gaucho

Argentina, the land of soccer superstar Lionel Messi and gauchos, is also famous for its exceptional steak—and rightly so. It all starts with the parrilla, or angled grill, which chefs use to cook the beef to perfection. And that’s exactly how the steak is cooked at La Fusta, a traditional Argentine steak house in North Bergen.

Located on a busy stretch of Routes 1 and 9, the restaurant is still popular and busy after 20 years in business. From the outside, it’s unassuming, but once you step inside, you’re transported to the pampas, the fertile, low grasslands that cover much of the country and are used to feed the cattle.

I reviewed this restaurant many years ago for New Jersey Monthly, and wanted to find out if the food was still as good. I was not disappointed.

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We started with the matambre casero, rolled, sliced flank steak stuffed with vegetables and hard-boiled eggs, a typical Argentine dish. The delicious empanadas are another great way to start your meal.

I couldn’t resist the entraña, half a grilled skirt steak. It was cooked to perfection and was so big that it nearly fell off my plate. Be sure to add chimichurri.

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If you’re adventurous, try the mixed grill, or parillada, served the traditional way on a mini charcoal grill brought to the table. It’s the dish La Fusta is famous for, and it’s obvious why. The Argentine version includes blood sausage, chorizo sausage, short ribs, skirt steak, intestines and sweetbreads, with kidney and liver an option. Another favorite is the gnocchi.

For dessert, don’t miss the crêpes with dulce de leche, or the flan, also with dulce de leche, and cream.

HOW WE REVIEW: Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of New Jersey Monthly. These unstarred reviews of more casual restaurants are written after one critic’s visit with two people; the magazine pays for these meals.

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