Park Place Prime, Atlantic City’s Newest Steak House, Is One of Its Best

I have to admit, I wasn’t expecting much when I made a reservation for dinner at Park Place Prime, the newest steak house in Atlantic City. But visiting new restaurants in this city is pretty much my job description. And so, reluctantly, I went.

Bally’s, which debuted as Bally’s Park Place in 1979, making it the third oldest casino in Atlantic City, lurks in the bottom tiers of any credible Atlantic City casino ranking.

When I walked into Bally’s from the Boardwalk for my first visit to Park Place Prime, the casino decor was garish, and the crowd was not exactly energetic or enticing. But I forged ahead.

My guests and I boarded an elevator and emerged on a very quiet sixth floor. We looked for signs of life, but saw none—until we turned a corner and found it glowing in the distance in all its glory: Park Place Prime.

It is here that the story does a complete 180. The decor is an unexpected combination of trendy, elegant and a bit retro, perhaps in a nod to Bally’s place in Atlantic City casino history. It’s easy to imagine the room as the see-and-be-seen spot of another era.

Arrive early enough before your reservation to soak in the classic vibes and meticulous service of the Park Place Prime bar, with its impressive list of speciality cocktails (Old Fashioned fans will enjoy choosing from the five versions here) and no shortage of special wines to sip; there’s even a Caymus cab by the glass.

Whatever you do, be sure to get a table in the main dining room, as opposed to one of the much less impressive annex areas where they might seat someone without a reservation or who, say, shows up at a fine-dining establishment in sweatpants and a T-shirt. The dining room offers one of the best views in Atlantic City, thanks to the huge windows showing off the ocean and all the dazzle of the casinos to the north.

The modern dining room. Photo: Felicia Perretti

Service here lacks nothing. Your server will know the menu inside and out and guide you through all the choices, of which there is no shortage.

I showed up looking for steaks. This is, after all, a steak house. And steaks I did eat. I personally endorse two of the USDA prime steaks on the vast menu: the gargantuan market-price tomahawk and the peerless, dry-aged New York strip. Both were beautifully charred and perfectly cooked.

Ahi tuna crudo with sesame oil and ponzu. Photo: Felicia Perretti

Though steaks were the pursuit, our server recommended some seafood appetizers, and I’m still thanking him for doing so. The citrusy shrimp ceviche with its chili kick, the ahi tuna crudo with sesame oil and ponzu, and the diver scallop carpaccio with its grapefruit tang are all not to be missed—and, frankly, if I had to choose between eating a steak or those three dishes as a combined entrée, I would choose the latter. But the calamari was soggy both times we tried it.

Diver scallop carpaccio served with grapefruit. Photo: Felicia Perretti

For sides, you can’t go wrong with the bacon-roasted Brussels sprouts and savagely rich lobster-truffle mac and cheese. On the other hand, our asparagus was overcooked and stringy.

The dessert here is as indulgent as the rest of the menu, though the New York-style cheesecake reigns supreme over the chocolate gâteau, which falls a bit flat.

After a long and sumptuous meal at Park Place Prime, I have just one piece of advice for you: Skip the casino and head straight for the steak house.

HOW WE REVIEW: Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of New Jersey Monthly. For our starred fine-dining reviews, our critics visit a restaurant at least twice with a guest, always maintaining anonymity to avoid preferential treatment, and the magazine pays for their meals. Stars are assigned by the dining-section editor in consultation with the reviewer.

Four stars = extraordinary; three stars = excellent; two stars = very good; one star = good; half a star = fair.

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