Redstone American Grill

The roaring fire in the stone hearth sets the outdoorsy, Western tone, and provides some comfort to the folks who may wait an hour to be seated at this, the newest eatery at the Promenade at Sagemore shopping center in Marlton.

This small but popular Midwestern chain has won a warm reception here in its fourth location—the first on the East Coast—with its wood-fired grilling and hearty fare of burgers, chops, spit-roasted chicken, and barbecued ribs. Fresh grilled fish changes daily. Salads such as green, Caesar, Greek, or Chicago Wedge (iceberg with bleu cheese and bacon) can be ordered with or without meat.

Canyon Flatbread comes in several varieties. We liked the Original, basically a thin-crusted basil, tomato, and mozzarella pizza. Also enjoyable were the two-inch thick, cider-glazed pork chop with creamy mac-and-cheese; and the meaty, slow-cooked, baby-back ribs. The burger was respectable, but the shoestring fries were crisp and memorable. The wood-fired rotisserie chicken may have been turning too long; it was disappointingly dry.

Prices are high for pub fare, but the portions almost always provide leftovers. It is a pleasant place to rejuvenate after a long day of shopping. But as day edges into night, the music cranks up, the bar crowd kicks in and the atmosphere becomes anything but quiet and relaxing.—M.F.