Bareli’s

Elegance at Bareli’s in Secaucus emanates from things like tables with leather armchairs, red-patterned carpet, and a grand piano next to the bar, producing cocktail music Thursdays through Saturdays. It’s classy, if a bit dated, but that’s of no concern to Bareli’s large and loyal following, who come back for the no-ticket valet, the crisp service, and the reliable Italian cooking, and maybe for the luxe sensation of pushing back an armchair on casters after a satisfying meal.

Located on eastbound Route 3 about two miles east of New Meadowlands Stadium, Bareli’s at lunch is a magnet for area business people, bankers, lawyers, and politicians. At the door, customers are likely to be welcomed by one of the partners, who have owned the restaurant (opened in 1986) since 2000—Bob Devita, the operating partner; Brent Rudnick, a former owner of the Harrison Baking Company (home of Pechter’s baked goods); and Vincent Ponte, an owner of F. Illi Ponte Ristorante in Manhattan. An owner on the premises is always a good sign.

Since 2006, chef Robb Welch, 43, has reinvigorated and modernized Bareli’s red sauce fare, particularly with daily specials such as braised red snapper in fra diavalo sauce with wilted spinach, squid ink risotto with grilled calamari, and braised pork shank with pasta and beans. Born in Paterson and raised in Garfield, he graduated from the Academy of Culinary Arts in Mays Landing and has cooked his way around the state. “People often wonder where I get my love of Italian cuisine,” he says. The answer? His mother’s side is “100 percent Sicilian.”

One thing you notice on the table is fine stemware, which fits hand-in-glove with Bareli’s wine list, a winner of Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence. Bareli’s staff knows the wines well and what dishes they complement.

Welch loves to cook lesser-known meats such as rabbit, buffalo, and frog’s legs. He does a commendable rabbit (coniglio) Provençal-style: braised until fork tender, fragrant with creamy garlic, tomato concassé and fresh oregano. He grills lightly marbled, grass-fed buffalo loins and scatters sauteed wild mushrooms on top for an earthy finish. He sautes frog’s legs until crispy and serves them with a light sauce of chopped fresh garlic, white wine, and sweet butter. The scent of the garlic and wine is heady. Will anyone notice if you eat these delicious morsels with your hands? I did, and suddenly a fingerbowl materialized at my table.

I like the attention to detail at Bareli’s. Bread is served hot and crusty. Sauce on the side and other special requests are not a problem. “If we have the ingredients and the time is available,” says Welch, “we will try to prepare a customer’s special order, even something off the menu.”

Pastas are generous and not drenched in sauce. Rigatoni norcima combines sliced sausage with fennel and fried garlic and frizzled onions. Cavatelli alla rucola boasts the peppery snap of barely wilted arugula, along with diced sauteed tomatoes, basil, and roasted peppers. Delicate ravioli di granche are stuffed with crabmeat and served with a light pink sauce that allows the delicate flavor of the crabmeat to shine through.

Roasted wild Atlantic salmon is one of several fish-of-the-day options recited with their prices. Simple and delicious, it was served with a mound of sautéed spinach, caramelized garlic, and a wedge of fresh lemon.
Several worthy preparations of veal are offered. My favorite was the costeletta alla valdostana, a flavor-packed double-cut chop glazed with sherry and crowned with wild mushrooms and, for a sharp counterpoint, stuffed with prosciutto and shaved aged Fontina. The pounded veal Milanese is a classic, crisply sauteed and topped with an arugula salad.

Desserts, all made in house, include tiramisú dripping with espresso-flavored liqueur. You’ll want to eat it with a spoon rather than a fork.