The birria de Jalisco taco, with slow-cooked beef stew, comes with a dipping broth. Photo: Courtesy of Bitol

Tucked in a nondescript strip mall in Clifton is a delightful Mexican restaurant, so authentic it makes you feel as if you’ve been transported to a quaint little spot in Oaxaca.

The cozy atmosphere in this cantina is enhanced by soft lighting, graffiti-inspired murals, cacti and traditional tile floors. The service is warm and attentive, and the staff is friendly and helpful. There is an inviting bar when you walk in, which serves beer, wine and handcrafted cocktails such as the Amante Picante: blanco tequila, Tito’s vodka, lime, agave, mango purée, jalapeño and Angostura bitters. The selection of margaritas on offer includes guava, passionfruit, prickly pear and mango; I chose the latter, and it was sweet and refreshing.

Bitol, named for the god of the sky in Mayan mythology, is the creation of owner Franklin Caceres, who wanted to bring Oaxacan-style cooking to New Jersey; Oaxaca is one of the most vibrant and interesting foodie cities in Mexico. The cuisine is famous for its complex flavors and unique moles (pronounced MOH-lay), traditional Mexican sauces or stews known for rich, layered flavors from ingredients such as dried chilies, fruits, nuts and, sometimes, chocolate. Here, you can order pollo con mole—airline chicken (a fancy cut of chicken breast with the drumette attached) with queso fresco, enchilada and Bitol house mole—or the enchiladas con mole, served with a trio of Mexican cheeses, cilantro, roasted adobe potatoes and Bitol mole. The mole here is creamy and a perfect balance of richness and freshness.

The appetizers also shine and are unusual and flavorsome. We started with traditional guacamole, but you can also order it with tuna tartare, al pastor (thinly sliced house adobo pork, bacon and grilled pineapple) or chicken.

We also tried the sikilpak, a traditional Mayan dip that’s made with toasted pumpkin seeds, roasted tomatillo, lime, queso fresco, jalapeño and pomegranate seeds, served with crunchy homemade tortillas. It was smoky and nutty, with a touch of spice.

The fresh taco choices are interesting and include birria de Jalisco, slow-cooked beef stew served with cheese and red adobo broth dipping sauce; beer-battered cauliflower, sautéed shrimp; seared tuna; and house-adobo-grilled hanger steak. There are even Mexican-style pizzas with toppings that include grilled cactus, chipotle-adobo pulled chicken and chorizo.

For dessert, don’t miss the heavenly tres leches cake or the homemade churros, served with chocolate and caramel sauces. It’s the perfect ending to this delightful Mexican fiesta.

HOW WE REVIEW: Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of New Jersey Monthly. These unstarred reviews of more casual restaurants are written after a critic visits once, with a guest; the magazine pays for these meals.