Hub City—New Brunswick’s nickname because it stands at the crossroads of the Northeast Corridor train line, the Raritan River and the New Jersey Turnpike—has a burgeoning restaurant scene and is a cultural center and college town. With all that liveliness, typically, come parking woes. Cuzin’s is located on a busy corner downtown, and my first thought as I approached was, How much is parking going to run? To my surprise, a sign in front of the door steered their patrons to free parking at the Hyatt hotel across the street, courtesy of the restaurant. Nice welcome—and that was just the beginning.

Inside, the staff were so friendly, I thought they’d mistaken me for someone else. Nope. They are just warm and enthusiastic. That’s the vibe.

The interior is spacious, with plentiful seating at oversized banquettes and tables, including high tops in the bar area, where the large, curving bar is comfortable for dining. The energetic design is a visual feast, with a multilayered ceiling treatment over the bar that mimics the billow of a wave. Behind the bar, a floor-to-ceiling digital display of a cascading waterfall succeeds with a captivating effect.

On another wall, a handsome stone relief spells out the restaurant’s name, and fishing net–inspired decorative grilles backlit in an ocean-blue hue add further ambience. A glass-enclosed wine collection is pinned to a back wall, and adjacent a double-doored dry-aging locker houses a stellar selection of steaks and other meats. Nearby, an ice-laden raw bar arrayed with fresh-from-the-sea shellfish is piled high. While all these decorative elements may sound disparate, they culminate in an attractive, welcoming setting that can accommodate groups and intimate diners alike.

The menu, too, is broad and multifaceted. We ordered cocktails—an expertly executed, smokey old-fashioned and a flawless martini—while we reviewed it. Cuzin’s bills itself as a seafood and clam bar, and while it is that, plenty of meat and pasta are also on offer (though vegans will have to cobble a meal from sides and salads).

We ordered blue point oysters and were pleased with the fresh-from-the-sea brininess of the mollusks and their ready supply of fixings. The grilled Spanish octopus, however, was the showstopper. A perfectly charred tangle of white meat—served over roasted potatoes and diced tomatoes tossed with capers, herbs and olive oil—was light, sweet and tender enough to rend with a fork. The blackened outer skin added a slight, satisfying crunch.

Photo: Courtesy of Cuzin’s

Once we saw the meat chamber, trying the long-bone tomahawk steak for two was a must; many a steak house woos with seafood, so why not vice versa? First off, the sheer size of this cut—40 ounces—is a carnivore’s dream. Seared to a perfect medium rare, the blush in the middle progressed to a proper singe on the outside, producing juicy, flavorful bites throughout. While slightly underseasoned for my taste, a twist of salt and pepper amply righted the flavor. Unlike the average steak house, this behemoth dish, with a price on par, was not served à la carte, but rather with truffle mac and cheese, creamed spinach, fried onion rings, Italian long hot peppers, and a thick slab of Nueske’s bacon.

The convivial buzz through the place may be just what owner Charlie Mayo imagined when he launched his first Cuzin’s near his home in Marlboro in 2016. Reportedly, Mayo threw his apron into the dining arena spurred by dissatisfaction with the lack of seafood restaurants in the area. He wasn’t wrong, and the proof now plays out on any given night, when Cuzin’s second location, which opened in New Brunswick in 2022, is full, if not standing room only. It was conceived for families, so bring the entire clan; the restaurant casts a wide net on cuisine, and there’s plenty of room.

HOW WE REVIEW: Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of New Jersey Monthly. These unstarred reviews of more casual restaurants are written after a critic visits once, with a guest; the magazine pays for these meals.

[RELATED: How a Tiny, Unassuming NJ Oyster Stand Became a National Seafood Sensation]

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