Caviar at the Mall? Eddie V’s in Cherry Hill Offers High-End Menu Amid Fast-Food Joints

There used to be a time when “Let’s go to the mall for dinner” equated to a visit to some food court where you inevitably found yourself drawn to whichever Chinese place was serving bourbon chicken, a dish that most certainly does not exist in China. But times have changed. Case in point: Eddie V’s.

The posh steak-and-seafood house, a chain owned by the same conglomerate that operates casual joints like the Olive Garden, recently opened its first South Jersey location at the Cherry Hill Mall.

Eddie V’s describes itself as upscale and fine dining (how often do you see caviar on a menu?), and it certainly strives to be both. Service borders on impeccable, almost strangely polite and impossibly attentive. The decor and vibe are certainly elegant and celebration worthy.

If great service and ambience were all one needed to consider in evaluating a restaurant, Eddie V’s would be a clear winner.

Filet mignon and lobster tail Photo: Courtesy of Eddie V’s

But the food is a mixed bag. If you want the best that Eddie V’s has to offer, lean into the steaks, which are well marbled and properly prepared. The seafood is another story. Oysters? Poorly shucked. Mangled. “Jumbo” shrimp cocktail? Small and mushy. Yellowtail sashimi? I’ve had far better. And keep in mind that the prices match the ambition. This place isn’t cheap.

In the end, you’re much better off walking six minutes to the Capital Grille down the road, which exceeds Eddie V’s in every way. And don’t feel too bad for Eddie V’s; the same company owns Capital Grille. They’ll get your money one way or the other.

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HOW WE REVIEW: Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of New Jersey Monthly. These unstarred reviews are written after one critic’s visit with two people; the magazine pays for these meals.

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