Masti Indian Grill

At Masti Indian Grill, a modern, simply decorated restaurant in a shopping center, cloth-covered tables are topped with glass and the walls are an interesting mix of red and yellow ochre paint and mirrors. Chef/owner Rajendra Desai describes the decor as nouveau contemporary.

The breads served in Indian restaurants are often delicious, and Masti is no exception. We order and devour the puffy, balloon-shaped poori, the garlic naan (flatbread baked against the wall of a clay tandoor oven), spicy naan stuffed with cheese, and khulcha stuffed with cheese and onions.

Traditionally eaten as a street snack, aloo papri chaat comprises potato cubes, chickpeas, and lentil crispies in a yogurt-and-tamarind sauce. Triangular-shaped vegetable samosas, filled with spiced potatoes, and lamb samosas, filled with spiced ground lamb and peas, are made of a flaky pastry that holds up well to deep frying. The chicken or vegetable pakora (fried in a chickpea batter) are decent, but the Indian chicken wings are a soggy disappointment.

Among the tandoori entrées (cooked in the traditional clay oven), I would not recommend the mixed grill, because everything cooks at a different rate. Instead opt for the seekh kebab (skewered spiced ground lamb), the marinated bone-in chicken, or the boneless chicken pieces marinated in yogurt and spices. Chicken simmered in almond-cream sauce is soothing and well flavored, as is the paneer (cheese) in a cashew-cream sauce with raisins and cashews. The lamb vindaloo (tender lamb and potatoes cooked in a fiery red-chili-onion gravy) is delicious but very spicy. Lamb saagwalla (with spinach) is less tender, but lamb rogan josh (in a yogurt-onion gravy) is quite good. As in most Indian restaurants, vegetarians are treated well. The mashed roasted eggplant is buttery and mildly spiced, but the okra with onions and tomatoes is dry and the yellow lentils are sloppy.

Desserts are very sweet and eminently forgettable. Far better to finish with a glass of sweet lassi (a rich yogurt shake).

Reviewed in: January, 2006