First came jenever, a juniper-infused neutral spirit used to treat gout, scurvy and menstrual bloating. As 17th-century English soldiers brought jenever home from its Dutch birthplace, the resiny medicine took hold as gin. This harsh, dry, London form largely defined gin for the next 400 years. But in 1999, Grant’s, a Scotch whisky company, developed Hendrick’s (named for the aged family gardener). While it fit gin’s definition of a clear base flavored with juniper, it was made using two unusual types of stills and infusing the distillate with cucumber and rose water. Result: a pleasingly botanical style of gin that sophisticates embraced, which became a market leader and launched the current wave of new-wave botanical gins.
“It’s an exciting time,” says Mike Lykens, GM of Brick Farm Tavern in Hopewell. “Bartenders and producers are taking a fresh approach to gin.”
Susan Lord produces three gins at her year-old Jersey Spirits Distilling, in Fairfield. All start with a corn-vodka base. DSP.7, adds low levels of juniper, then showcases cardamom, orange, cinnamon, star anise, licorice root and eight more botanicals. There’s a honeyed DSP.7 as well as a hopped version with citrusy notes, called Equinox. Tasting-room patrons might order them with house-made tonic or pomegranate juice and brown sugar steeped with rosemary.
“People get tired of old-style gin because the flavors are so strong,” says Lord. “We call ours contemporary because we use flavors people cook with today.”
Bartenders adore gin’s versatility. “I won’t mask their profile, as opposed to a tequila or bourbon drink,” says Ray Keane of Jersey City’s Battello. “I just let the gins speak for themselves.”
Stuck in a Jam
By Ray Keane of Battello
2 oz Botanist gin
1 oz Bravo jammy vermouth
1/4 oz pine nut infused Luxardo Maraschino
1 dash orange bitters
1 dash absinthe
To prepare: stir for 20 seconds, then strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with flamed orange zest.