Girasole Offers a Delectable Taste of Italy in Atlantic City

Part of Atlantic City’s charm is the resort-style experience, with multiple restaurants under one roof. So, visiting off-site, non-hotel establishments must be worth the venture out. Girasole, located near the Tropicana off the Boardwalk, is one such place, and has been for more than 30 years.

The Mediterranean-style dining room exudes Italian Riviera vibes, with terracotta floors, oversized ceramic ginger-jar vases filled with bright sunflowers, plenty of light, and a giant built-in pizza oven anchoring the far end. Early on a midsummer Friday night, the staff was standing at the ready near the bar when we entered and, in a flurry of hospitality, they rushed to seat us.

The attentive service lasted all night. First, our drinks—a dry martini for me. On delivery, my cocktail lacked the requested olives, but before I could ask, a small dish of olives appeared. Bravo, already.

With more than half a dozen carpaccio varieties on the menu, I knew where to start and chose carpaccio fungia, an array of translucently thin slices of warm filet mignon with shitake and porcini mushrooms, tomato and garlic.

With my inner carnivore sated, my main selection was branzino, the preparation of which was perfectly on point: a whole fish, baked and topped with black olives, garlic and tomatoes. The firm, white fish maintained its moisture, delivering a palate-pleasing density.

Girasole offers a host of house-made pastas in a dozen styles with as many accompaniments. Another Italian favorite worth waiting for is the creamy risotto, which requires a 20-minute cook time.

Have a nightcap or dessert in the screened outdoor lounge outfitted with Versace-inspired pillows, then stroll back to the hustle and bustle of casino-world AC.

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HOW WE REVIEW: Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of New Jersey Monthly. These unstarred reviews are written after a critic visits once, with a guest; the magazine pays for these meals.

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