Xina has consistently been one of the best spots for sushi rolls and other Asian cuisine in South Jersey since it opened back in 2012. But its location, tucked way down in Toms River, just before the bridge that connects Route 37 to the barrier islands, made it just out-of-the-way enough to be annoying to a Monmouth County resident like me. That problem has been solved, as Xina recently opened its second BYO right in the heart of Bradley Beach, in the most unconventional of spaces—a former 7-Eleven.

The Slurpee machines, Slim Jims and male enhancement pills have vanished, and in their place are mild tones of beige, a few leafy plants, and an overall modern aesthetic that manages to feel almost invisible. But the footprint is noticeably small, with virtually nowhere to stand while waiting to be seated, and tables are packed nightly and tightly—which means parties of two become forced dining mates by default. One can’t help but wish Xina had found a spot with more space to stretch out and had built a bit more personality into the design.

Surroundings aside, the Bradley Beach location puts out some of the best Asian dishes at the Shore, a fusion style birthed from the fearlessly creative approach of chef/owner Rick Lee. When was the last time you came across guacamole or any form of bacon, egg and cheese at your local sushi bar? Both made appearances here: the former, a raw-bar standout combined with fresh tuna, edamame and soy for a playful take on the Mexican standard; the latter found its way into a tasty-yet-gimmicky punch-up in the BEC (bacon, egg and cheese) fried rice that felt a bit forced.

BEC fried rice with bacon, egg, American cheese, lettuce and scallion. Photo: Shilpa Iyer

Sushi rolls are what kept me driving to the original location, and they remain the star players. Rolls give any chef the opportunity to get inventive, but the less talented tend to simply stack ingredients that often get lost in the combination. Lee always manages to find space for flavors to coexist in harmony, as is the case with the fabulous Delmonico roll, a special that pairs shrimp tempura with spicy crab, pickled red onion, American Wagyu beef, blue cheese and crispy onions; or the Contra roll, which again channels Mexico with snapper, guajillo chili salsa, salsa verde, shrimp tempura, spicy tuna and jalapeño for one of the strongest wins on the menu.

The preparation of standard Chinese takeout classics like wonton soup and walnut shrimp was kept mostly traditional, but like most well-executed dishes, it’s the subtle details that elevated it. This time, the simple addition of a few sliced strawberries introduced a subtle tartness to the shrimp that made it unforgettable. Pad Thai was decent, if mostly uninspired (but why you would come here for Thai food when you have Bamboo Leaf right down the street is a question not worth pondering).

Roasted Peking duck with steamed bao buns. Photo: Shilpa Iyer

Perhaps the best entrée of the night was the roasted Peking duck, a showstopping half bird, sliced thin and served with steamed bao buns, cucumbers, scallions and hoisin sauce for you to build your own Asian sliders. A home run from all angles, the duck was even more succulent than I had hoped, with an impossibly crispy skin that I would consider marrying if it was socially acceptable to do so. It was the exact type of thing that makes you say: “Hey—we should go back there again!”

And if that doesn’t do it, their choice of presenting apple pie in full Rangoon form as a dessert should do the trick.

The apple pie Rangoon. Photo: Shilpa Iyer

HOW WE REVIEW: Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of New Jersey Monthly. For our starred fine-dining reviews, our critics visit a restaurant at least twice with a guest, always maintaining anonymity to avoid preferential treatment, and the magazine pays for their meals. Stars are assigned by the dining-section editor in consultation with the reviewer.

Four stars = extraordinary; three stars = excellent; two stars = very good; one star = good; half a star = fair.