ESTY STREET, PARK RIDGE
When the waiter asked how everything was, I said, “I want to move in here.” That’s how impressed we were with our whole dining experience at Esty Street, 86 Spring Valley Road, Park Ridge. It seems that the property was once a boarding house for the farm workers in the area. Today, the space, which was completely renovated in October 2008, is cozy and comfortable, with soft lighting, gorgeous wood-paneled walls, elegant drapes, and dishware that catches your eye—and it’s quiet. To sum up our experience: wonderful.
As soon as we tasted the pesto, made with arugula rather than basil and served with a choice of four different breads (baguette, sourdough, potato onion, and ciabatta), we knew that executive chef Adam Weiss does things a bit differently and does them well. An appetizer on the eclectic menu was sautéed Hudson Valley foie gras with warmed peaches, streusel crumbs, fleur de sel, and a raspberry vinegar reduction—a creative and heavenly dish that had us swooning. It was so perfectly prepared that we could have had a second helping for dessert. Handmade ethereal oven-roasted tomato-ricotta ravioli with toasted pine nuts, herb plum tomato sauce, basil oil, and Parmigiano-Reggiano was elegant and flavorful. If it’s available try the wild mushroom chawanmushi. This savory egg custard is presented at the table with sautéed wild mushrooms, edamame, and scallions, and then a hot mushroom dashi broth is poured into the soup bowl. It’s eaten with a spoon and is a very luxurious, comforting dish.
Entrées were just as appealing and beautifully plated. Tender and falling apart with the touch of our fork, the cola-braised beef short ribs had multiple layers of texture and tastes; they were served with a slaw of jicama, fennel, and red cabbage, plus a crisp hush puppy, Swiss chard, and a sweet-and-sour barbecue sauce. When I got home I looked for recipes for short ribs made with cola, as the version at Esty Street was a keeper. An inventive twist on a classic was the sautéed sea scallop “chowder” served with a creamy sauce and applewood-smoked bacon, Prince Edward Island mussels, Jersey corn, roasted red peppers, purple potatoes, and spinach. The dish was colorful and flawless, and I grudgingly shared it with Lowell.
Desserts were worth ordering, and we rose to the task and finished both of ours. A stunning and gratifying Montrachet brûlée cheesecake served in a crisp phyllo basket with a berry compote and balsalmic vinegar reduction was a standout, as was the Tahitian vanilla tapioca served in a wine glass with fresh blueberries, poached peaches, chantilly cream, and raspberry coulis.
Esty Street is not cheap, with entrees ranging from $24 to $40. Along with a bottle of wine, the check can easily add up. We do have one suggestion for host/owner Kim Costagliola. Please print out your specials with the prices. For reservations at this “I can’t wait to return” restaurant, call 201-307-1515 or log on to opentable.com.
Sea scallop “chowder.”
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.
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PORTO LEGGERO, JERSEY CITY
Porto Leggero, Harborside Financial Center, Plaza V, 160 Greene Street, Jersey City, which opened in June of 2004, is still a stunning restaurant. The décor reminds us of a medieval Italian castle, with its soaring ceilings, brick walls, floor-to-ceiling windows, decorative iron railings, and striking chandeliers, a perfect date-night atmosphere.
Many restaurants today change their menus weekly, monthly, or seasonally. At Porto Leggero, though, we were surprised to find that the menu seemed not to have changed since we dined there in 2004, with dishes in the “traditional” and “signature” sections using the same base ingredient. For example, you’ll find the traditional dish branzino Livornese (striped bass in a sauce of olives, capers, and onions with a hint of anchovy), along with a signature equivalent such as branzino al Porto (filet of striped bass with a potato crust in a port and sherry vinegar reduction). Salads and pastas—half or whole orders—can be ordered as starters, and we found these to be the better part of our dinner. A generous serving of spinach salad with Roquefort, walnuts, and a roasted pear was fresh tasting, although the dressing was a tad too sweet. Pappardelle in a vodka sauce with snow peas, a nice touch, was delicious but was as spicy as the spaghetti all’amatriciana. Gamberi Riviera, butterflied shrimp over sautéed spinach with a lemon, mustard, and roasted shallot broth, were well cooked, as were the scampi, large shrimp simmered with garlic, lemon, and white wine with fresh herbs. Maiale Valdostano, a stuffed pork chop, was overcooked and dry.
Service was lacking, with plates not coming out together, waiters placing the wrong dish in front of us, an entrée coming out as soon as the appetizer dishes were whisked away, having to ask for our wine to be poured, and our coffee order never being filled. A long list of specials was recited without the prices; be aware that some of the specials were twice as expensive as the highest listed item on the menu. For reservations, call 201-434-3200.
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DAVID BURKE FROMAGERIE, RUMSON
On November 16, a five-course Hundred Acre wine dinner with sommelier David Mensch will be held at David Burke Fromagerie, 26 Ridge Road, Rumson. Executive chef Larry Baldwin will present the following menu:
Scallops with parsnip purée and sweet-and-sour bacon
(2005 Gold blend of Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, and Viognier, Australia)
Cider-glazed pork tenderloin, smoked barley, local kale, and Jonathan apples
(2009 Cherry Pie “Stanly Ranch,” Carneros, Napa, California)
Dry-aged lamb cassoulet, confit shoulder, merguez, and roasted leg
(2008 Barossa Jack Shiraz, Australia)
Dry-aged sirloin and braised oxtail, Onaway potato purée, and red onion marmalade
(2008 Hundred Acre “Ark” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, California)
Spiced poached baby pears with a mille-feuille of caramel mousse
(2008 Macari Block E Dessert Wine, North Fork, Long Island)
6:30 to 10:30 PM; $165 plus tax and tip. For reservations, call 732-842-8088.
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The following restaurants will be open for Thanksgiving (Thursday, November 24):
The Bernards Inn, 27 Mine Brook Road, Bernardsville, will offer two options. Seatings for the Grand Buffet are from 12:30 to 6 PM; $59, $29 for children ages five to twelve, $15 for children ages two to four (no charge for children under two). Seatings for the three course prix-fixe dinner are from 1 to 7 PM; $75, $35 for children ages two to twelve. For reservations, call 908-766-0002.
The Brass Rail Restaurant & Bar, 135 Washington Street, Hoboken, will serve a three-course prix-fixe menu. Noon to 8 PM; $39, children’s menu $12. For reservations, call 201-659-7074.
Casa Dante, 737 Newark Avenue, Jersey City, will feature a special menu along with the regular à la carte menu. For reservations, call 201-795-2750.
Chakra, West 144 Route 4 East, Paramus, will be open from 1 to 6:30 PM, offering a three-course prix-fixe dinner for $42. An $18 children’s à la carte menu will also be available. For reservations, call 201-556-1530.
Due Terre Enoteca, 107 Morristown Road, Bernardsville, will serve a three-course traditional holiday menu. 2 to 6 PM; $45, children $20. For reservations, call 908-221-0040.
A three-course prix-fixe menu with turkey and all the trimmings plus selections from the autumn menu will be available at the Frog and the Peach, 29 Dennis Street, New Brunswick. For reservations, call 732-846-3216.
Highlawn Pavilion, Eagle Rock Reservation, West Orange, will offer a four-course dinner; $59 plus 20 percent gratuity and 7 percent sales tax. A dinner for kids ages four to twelve will be available upon request for $29.50. For reservations, call 973-731-3463.
High Street Grill, 64 High Street, Mount Holly, will serve a prix-fixe menu from 1 to 6 PM. For reservations, call 609-265-9199.
The Knife and Fork Inn, Albany and Pacific Aves, Atlantic City, will serve Thanksgiving dinner from 2 to 8 PM. For reservations, call 609-344-1133.
Liberty House Restaurant, Liberty State Park, 76 Audrey Zapp Drive, Jersey City, will offer a three-course prix-fixe celebratory dinner. 1 to 6 PM; $48, children $25. For reservations, call 201-395-0300.
The Manor, 111 Prospect Avenue, West Orange, will offer buffet dining from 12:30 to 6:30 PM; $49.95, children ages four to twelve $19.95. À la carte dining will be offered from 12:30 to 6:30 PM; $62.95, children ages four to twelve $24.95. Children’s menus will be available by advance request. For reservations, call 973-731-2360.
Nicholas, 160 Route 35 South, Red Bank, is accepting reservations from 2 to 8 PM; $75 for the three-course tasting menu or the four-course garden menu; $95 ($155 with wine) for the six-course tasting menu; and $32 for the children’s menu. Call 732-345-9977 for reservations.
The Park Steakhouse, 151 Kinderkamack Road, Park Ridge, will offer Thanksgiving-inspired specials as well as the à la carte menu. For reservations, call 201-930-1300.
Park West Tavern, 30 Oak Street, Ridgewood, will serve Thanksgiving specials and an à la carte menu. For reservations, call 201-445-5400.
At Rod’s Steak and Seafood Grille and the Madison Hotel, 1 Convent Road, Morristown, a Thanksgiving Grand Buffet will be served in the ballroom and conservatory of the hotel, and the regular tavern menu along with a turkey special will be offered in GK’s Red Dog Tavern. A take-out Thanksgiving dinner is also available. Call 973-539-6666 for reservations.
Stage Left, 5 Livingston Avenue, New Brunswick, will offer a three-course traditional Thanksgiving dinner ($65) as well as an à la carte menu. For reservations, call 732-828-4444.
The annual Thanksgiving Day charity dinner will be held at the Stockton Inn, 1 Main Street, Stockton, to benefit the Trenton Area Soup Kitchen. The dinner will include roasted turkey, roasted vegetables, mashed potatoes, stuffing, cranberry sauce, homemade rolls, and homemade pumpkin pie for $5 (drinks and taxes not included). Tips remain with your server. Diners are asked to make an additional donation, of any amount, by cash or a separate check made payable to the Trenton Area Soup Kitchen. Seatings are for 60 minutes at noon, 1:15 PM, 2:30 PM, and 3:45 PM. For reservations, call 609-397-1250.
The regular menu along with holiday à la carte specials will be offered at the Strip House, Westminster Hotel, 550 West Mount Pleasant Avenue, Livingston; 1 to 9 PM. For reservations, call 973-548-0050.
The Washington Inn, 801 Washington Street, Cape May, will serve Thanksgiving dinner and be open for regular dinner service on Friday and Saturday, November 25 and 26. For reservations, call 609-884-5697.
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