MODERN AMERICAN EATERY, JERSEY CITY
It was nostalgia that brought us to the Modern American Eatery (MAE), 339 Communipaw Avenue, Jersey City. Yes, it’s a new restaurant, and we’re always drawn to new restaurants. It also has an interesting menu and is getting good postings from bloggers, both pluses. But it was the fact that it’s located on Communipaw Avenue in Jersey City that really roped us in. You see, I grew up in Jersey City, and my grandfather and father had a butcher shop at 601 Communipaw Avenue, until the city took the property through eminent domain. (It’s now a Kentucky Fried Chicken.) So, not having been in the area in more years than we could remember, we had to return to the neighborhood and dine at MAE. And we’re sure glad we did.
You can mix and match here, as there are a lot of small plates worth sharing and about six mains supplemented with specials. Only eight wines are offered by the glass, priced from $6 to $10; we weren’t thrilled with any of them, so you may want to opt for the drafts, lagers, ales, or cocktails. The food pairs well with beer, including items such as mixed olives, fried pickles, chorizo rounds, and yucca-chorizo hash. The slow roasted salt-and-pepper BBQ lamb ribs came to the table sizzling and were mouth-popping delicious, falling off the bone with a lip-smackin’ sauce. After having the spicy ribs, we found the charred lemon eggplant with roasted peppers and chives bland and in need of a boost from salt and pepper. Mac and cheese was appropriately gooey, with NY Cheddar, Fontina, Gruyère, and lardons—one of the better preparations we’ve had in a long time. Cheese also took a starring role in the charred farro risotto with maitake mushrooms, onions, and herbs, as Parmesan livened up the dish. Pork stew with collard greens, cilantro, tomato, poached egg, and avocado was a colorful head-turner with immense flavors and tender pieces of meat. Two desserts were offered; we bypassed the crème brûlée for the shortbread with berries and whipped cream, creating a perfect end to our dinner.
Lamb ribs.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.
MAE has 70 dining-room seats with comfortable cushioned antique chairs (the kind you may have found in your grandmother’s house), red tables, brick walls, and a long bar that seats 12. Check out the local artwork—let’s just say it’s interesting. We were trying to guess what type of car was in one picture. I thought a ’50s Studebaker, and others thought a Chevy Bel Air. Let me know what you think.
Kudos to Chef Gregory Torrech for presenting comfort food at extremely reasonable prices. (The highest-priced item is a flat-iron steak for $16.) Portions are ample, and quality ingredients are used. On weekends, weather permitting, a Caja China all-you-can-eat pig roast is featured in the backyard. Reservations: 201-743-8454.
Pork stew.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.
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LOLA LATIN BISTRO, METUCHEN
What an amiable, customer-friendly personality Nick Borzone has. Chef/owner of Lola Latin Bistro, 87 Central Avenue, Metuchen, Borzone works the floor, greeting customers and making sure everyone is happy at his BYO Latin fusion restaurant. We met him a zillion years ago when he owned Trattoria Nicola in Somerset. Anyone remember that cutting-edge Italian restaurant? Borzone also owned Cafe Abbraci, another successful restaurant in Metuchen.
The portions are substantial, and the food is very good. So dip away, but don’t fill up on the addictive garlic and sun-dried tomato oil served with warm rolls and presented in a cigar box. Although a whole dinner can be structured around the tapas, we shared four apps: empanadillas with goat cheese and olives; tuna tartare; crunchy fried chicken wings in a spicy sauce; and calamari and greens drizzled with a delightfully different chili-lime aoli. Jalapeño sauce gave a burst of flavor to marinated pork tenderloin with shredded Latin slaw and roasted fingerlings, while different textures created scrumptious contrasts in the pan-seared salmon with spicy mango glaze, cool pineapple salsa, and fried polenta cakes. Colorful mashed sweet potatoes and lively salsa were excellent accompaniments to the mojo-marinated skirt steak. An assertive red sauce surrounded a special of shrimp, another anything-but-dull dish. Dessert was a flavorful flan and ice cream from Nasto’s.
Chicken wings.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.
Lola Latin Bistro has a mural on one wall and a stunning outdoor fire pit, which is a central part of the patio, where dining is available. The music can get loud but creates a festive mood in this high-energy restaurant. Reservations: 732-548-5652; BYO.
Skirt steak.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.
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EDIBLE JERSEY FARMERS’ MARKET COOKBOOK
Don’t go to your local farmers’ market without buying the newly published 52-page Edible Jersey Farmers’ Market Cookbook, with more than 30 seasonal recipes, a 2012 market guide, and a seasonality chart. It’s available for $7.99 at select food shops, at retail outlets statewide, and at www.ediblecommunities.com/jersey/cookbook.
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SUMMER AT MILLBURN’S MOONSHINE MODERN SUPPER CLUB
MoonShine Modern Supper Club, 55 Main Street, Millburn, has a new summer menu that includes gazpacho with cucumbers and marinated grilled shrimp; oven-roasted whole branzino with sautéed spinach and roasted fingerling potatoes; grilled mahi-mahi with tabbouleh, preserved lemons, and charred scallion vinaigrette; and a classic hanger steak. At lunch there’s a new value-priced Trio Menu, where patrons can choose three items and a soft drink for $12. And there are new summer drinks such as the Floral Elegance (jasmine tea–infused Midnight Moon corn spirits, honey-infused lemonade, muddled mint, and St. Germain), All-American Sangria (cranberry moonshine, red wine, O3 orange liqueur, orange juice, and pomegranate juice), and Strawberry Moon Punch (muddled strawberries and mint with strawberry-infused moonshine). Happy hour is still celebrated Monday through Friday from 4 to 7 PM, but a “reverse happy hour” has been put into place, Monday to Thursday from 9 PM to closing and Friday and Saturday from 10 PM to closing, with select half-price wines and draught beers and $5 premium well drinks. For more information and reservations, call 973-218-6042.
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RAM’S HEAD INN, GALLOWAY
Tuesday through Friday from 5 PM to closing and Sunday from 3:30 PM to closing, a three-course summer prix-fixe dinner menu for $29.95 plus tax and gratuity is being offered at the Ram’s Head Inn, 9 West White Horse Pike, Galloway. Executive chef Elio Gracia is presenting the following menu.
Appetizers: house-smoked salmon and black cod; baby greens and frisée salad with walnuts, apples, cranberries, and enoki mushrooms; French onion soup or soup du jour; steamed littleneck clams with white wine garlic butter sauce and chorizo
Entrées: sautéed or broiled tilapia with lemon caper beurre blanc; chicken potpie served in a copper kettle; char-grilled sirloin with Cabernet reduction; stuffed flounder with lobster sauce; crab imperial
Dessert: seasonal cobbler; cheesecake; key lime pie; crème brûlée; fresh berries
Also, happy hour is celebrated from 5 to 7 PM Tuesday through Friday and on Sunday, with drink specials and half-price appetizers, sandwiches, and salads. For more information, call 609-652-1700 or visit www.ramsheadinn.com.
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CAPE MAY CRAFT BEER & CRAB FESTIVAL
On August 11, a Craft Beer & Crab Festival with steamed crabs, corn on the cob, pulled pork, local and regional craft beers, and all-day entertainment will be held at the Emlen Physick Estate, 1048 Washington Street, Cape May. 11 AM to 8 PM; free admission; charge for food, beer, and some activities. Commemorative pint glasses and T-shirts will also be available for purchase. Proceeds from the event will benefit the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts & Humanities’ educational outreach programs.
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ICE CREAM FESTIVAL AT ROSA MEXICANO, HACKENSACK
August 8 through 21, celebrate frozen treats at the Ice Cream Festival at Rosa Mexicano, Riverside Square, 390 Hackensack Avenue, Hackensack. Pastry chef Jai Kendall will be offering sweet and salty flavors, including a special mango-strawberry lemonade sherbet and guacamole de postre featuring sweet avocado-mint ice cream prepared tableside with strawberries and a white chocolate swirl and served with passion fruit chocolate sauce and cinnamon sugar buñuelos (fried dough). Additional flavors will include but are not limited to Mexican pink ice cream made with fresh strawberry and cherry ice cream, rose-scented marshmallows, coconut crunch, and a strawberry jam swirl; and pistachio and Mexican chocolate chip ice cream with white pistachio and canela brittle and espresso chocolate fudge. Reservations: 201-489-9100.
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