PARK AND SIXTH, JERSEY CITY
Mix and match at Park and Sixth in Jersey City, where chef/owner Brian Dowling is serving a small-plates dinner menu meant for sharing. Look for whimsical touches in this small restaurant/bar that was filled with families with young children, hipsters, bikers and young couples. A sign outside reads, “Restaurant—Bar—Zoo.” The brick walls are filled with kitsch and amusing signs, such as “complaints will be heard on the second Tuesday of next week.” The tongue-in-cheek menu states, the following description for taters: “Dirty smashed potatoes, roasted garlic, cream cheese, Lipitor.” We loved the menu and the food. What a delicious find this was for the Safersteins.
A starter of garbage salad was anything but. It contained zucchini, broccoli rabe, Portobello, roasted peppers, red onion and cilantro-lime vinaigrette and the vegetables were roasted, which imparted deep, rich flavor. Soy-vermouth short ribs, off the bone, with star anise were superbly tender and accompanied by addictive blue cheese smashed potatoes. The licorice taste imparted by the star anise and saltiness from the blue cheese made for a well-balanced dish. When we saw everything-bagel-crusted salmon on the menu we knew that we had to order it. Unsure if it was smoked or cooked salmon our waitress informed us that the salmon was seared on both sides. Unfortunately, ours was overcooked but the pickled red onion, tomato concasse and caper creme fraiche saved this dish from being too dry, and we appreciated the everything crust. A side of burnt broccoli—it’s suppose to be that way—was fortified with a flavorful garlic and ginger-soy sauce that had a bit of a kick to it. One dessert, flan, was thick and creamy and presented with powered sugar, sliced strawberry and fresh mint leaves. Other menu items include: Asian-marinated skirt steak with spicy gringo chimichurri and oil-poached fingerling potatoes; burgers with a choice of Old Bay or sweet potato fries, or a mesculin salad; the Philly cheese steak spring rolls with a sambal glaze; mac ‘n’ cheese with five cheeses, garlic, shallots and a bunch of other secret ingredients; and the spicy yellowfin tuna tartare tacos with pico de gallo and tomatillo salsa. On Tuesdays, all you can eat mussels for $10 are available from 7 to 9 PM and bottles of half-priced wine are available all night.
Garbage salad.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
Park and Sixth
364 Grove St.
Jersey City
201-918-6072
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END OF ELM, MORRISTOWN
End of Elm, which also serves small plates, had a very different vibe than the rustic Park & Sixth. The décor was modern, the space was large, walls painted with very little decorations, drapes on the windows, a communal table, bar, and six TVs. Brown linen napkins were on clothless wood tables.
We ordered our choices and a bottle of wine. After waiting an intolerably long time for our food, we flagged down the busy waiter and we were told that a cook quit in the middle of service. I have worked the line and know how this can certainly put the kitchen in the weeds. This is an owner’s nightmare.
All of our dishes were quite tasty but a few of them did not match the menu descriptions. The beautifully plated stack of red and gold beets with arugula, goat cheese, and almonds had a very thin smear of undetectable goat cheese and was missing almonds. The roasted-vegetable Caesar salad was excellent although it was missing the croutons and shaved Parmesan. Creamy shrimp and grits with chorizo, peppers and onions was a must-try dish, and we also loved the trio of sliders (beef, pulled lamb and braised duck) although the fries were cold. Grilled hanger steak, which we prefer over flank steak, was beefy and tender. All of the portions were adequate for four people to share. We didn’t think there were desserts, as we weren’t offered any, however, after checking online, we saw that there is a dessert menu.
As previously noted the service was tortoise slow and the owner, who was helping to serve, came over to our table and told us that because of all the problems, dinner was on the house. Smart marketing move and I immediately said to Lowell that we would have to return here to give the place another chance. We didn’t expect the bottle of wine to be comped and asked the waiter for the bill. We were billed for our entire meal, which we paid for and left the restaurant shaking our heads. So much for attentive management. In the interim, we have learned that a new chef/GM Thomas Donohoe, who previously was at Doris & Ed’s in the Highlands, has been hired and service has improved. So, it’s not the end for End of Elm for us. We loved chef Donohoe’s cuisine when he was at Doris & Ed’s and will be heading back. If you dine here certainly give us a report.
End of Elm beet salad.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
End of Elm
140 Morris Street
Morristown.
973-998-4534
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HAPPY TENTH ANNIVERSARY TO FASCINO, MONTCLAIR
Fascino, 331 Bloomfield Ave, Montclair, celebrated their 10th anniversary on June 30 and will be closed for renovations until July 16th. Chef Ryan DePersio has been working on a new menu, but will retain some of Fascino’s signature dishes. If anyone is interested in buying the paintings, e-mail chef Ryan at [email protected], and he will email you pictures of what is left and the pricing. Phone: 973-233-0350.
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GROUNDS FOR SCULPTURE, HAMILTON
The Gazebo, an outdoor cafe at the Grounds for Sculpture, 18 Fairgrounds Road, Hamilton, that offers light fare homemade desserts, ice cream and drinks is now open to 9 PM from Tuesday through Saturday. On select Friday evenings there is live music and on “First Wednesdays” Happy Hour is held from 6 to 9 PM with specially priced cocktails, wine, beer and small plates from the grill. Information: 609-586-0616.
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SUMMIT WINE AND FOOD FESTIVAL 2013
It’s not too early to buy tickets to the Fifth Summit Wine and Food Festival 2013, which will be held at the Grand Summit Hotel, 570 Springfield Ave, Summit, and downtown Summit from September 20 through the 22. It will feature Food Network and Bravo celebrity chefs, sommeliers, top winemakers and wineries. Events include a VIP Gala Dinner and Gala Tasting (both held on Friday night), seminars, tastings and gala tasting on Saturday; and wine tastings and seminars on Sunday. Tickets can be purchased at The Wine List of Summit, 417 Springfield Ave, Summit; by calling 908-277-6565; or online at summitwineandfood.com/
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TASTOSTERONE: THE BEST COOKBOOK FOR MEN
You don’t have to be a male to appreciate Tastosterone: The Best Cookbook for Men, written by New Jersey native Debra Levy Picard, as this cookbook has practical information for any beginning cook, such as the proper way to hard boil an egg, bake a potato, cook rice, or pasta. The various stages of a man’s cooking life, from a young boy to a retired man, and every stage in between are explored with easy to follow recipes that include shopping lists and tips. Popular recipes that we all love include: whatever vegetable soup; Kefta lamb meatballs; corned beef and cabbage; lasagna; chicken and rice with chili sauce; classic Mozzarella salad; and brownies. Lowell looked at the book and said, “I like the large print, pictures and that the recipes would be easy to make.” I’ll find out, as he will be making the steakhouse onion soup for us next week. Tastoserone is available at River Road Books at 759 River Road in Fair Haven, NJ and on tastosterone.com and Amazon.
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DINING DEAL
Tuesday night is Lobster Night at the Mill at Spring Lake Heights, 101 Old Mill Road, Spring Lake Heights with a 2-pound steamed or broiled lobster for $26.95. Reservations: 732-449-1800.
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JERSEY SEAFOOD CHALLENGE WINNER
Congratulations to Christopher Albrecht of Eno Terra in Kingston, who was the winner of the 2013 Jersey Seafood Challenge for his signature dish, Golden Tilefish and Green Vegetable Chowder. Albrecht and his sous chef, John Crawford Koeniger, will be New Jersey’s official representatives at the Great American Seafood Cook-off in New Orleans on August 3.
First runner-up was Frank Benowitz, chef/instructor at Mercer County Community College in West Windsor and second runner-up was James Costello, chef/owner of the Ohana Grille in Lavallette. Other chefs who participated in the cook-off, coordinated by the New Jersey Department of Agriculture and the New Jersey Chapters of the American Culinary Federation, included: Peter Almonte, Steve and Cookie’s By the Bay, Margate City; Dominique Filoni, Avenue Restaurant, Long Branch; and Will Mooney, The Brothers Moon Restaurant, Hopewell.
The competition was held on June 20 at Drumthwacket, the Governor’s residence in Princeton.
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EAT! DRINK! ITALY! WITH VIC RALLO
Don’t forget to tune in to Eat! Drink! Italy! with Vic Rallo on July 6 on public television. Rallo, a restaurateur, owns Basil T’s Brewery and Italian Grill in Red Bank and Undici Taverna Rustica in Rumson. The show was filmed in all parts of Italy and features the best in Italian food and wine.
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