TUSCANY, UPPER MONTCLAIR
Whenever a new Italian restaurant opens up, it’s not uncommon for bloggers to write, “Just what we need—another Italian restaurant.” And while there’s an abundance of such places in NJ, we welcome the new ones that have menu items that stand out. Tuscany, 622 Valley Road, Upper Montclair, is one of them. This new BYO opened in late May, and based on the steak and desserts we had, it’s a keeper. It also has a few not-often-seen menu items that we would like to explore on our next visit, such as lobster, avocado, and mango salad dressed in a raspberry aioli; lasagnette Toscana, a handmade square of pasta with plum tomatoes, thinly sliced eggplant, mozzarella, pecorino, and pesto; cannelloni stuffed with braised short ribs and served with a cognac cream sauce; and pappardelle with lamb ragù.
Not everything was perfect, however. Specials, for example, were recited without the prices, and we’re assuming that since the restaurant is new it hasn’t hit its stride yet. One starter was melanzane Toscana, thinly sliced, creamy layers of eggplant with plum tomato sauce, pecorino, and Italian basil. It was a light and tasty dish, as the eggplant wasn’t drenched in bread crumbs—but it was served lukewarm. An ample portion of crisp Caesar salad, made with a creamy dressing that needed to be more assertive, was not cold enough.
Tuscany, Italy, is known for its steaks, and Tuscany, Upper Montclair, offers four versions. Based on the bistecca Toscana ($36), we’d go here for a steak fix sooner than to some of the beef palaces we’ve dined at. Our prime rib-eye, without the bone, was marinated with fresh Italian herbs, grilled, and served with roasted rosemary potatoes and spinach. It was a perfectly prepared, tender, and rich piece of meat. Outstanding. Two different preparations of filet mignon and an aged seventeen-ounce New York shell steak are also offered. We failed to ask what type of sauce was on the linguine cacio e pepe con carciofini, flat pasta with pecorino, black pepper, and baby artichokes, but we never would have ordered the dish if we knew it would be swimming in butter. Also, the waiter told us it was made with fresh artichokes, but the color, texture, and flavor didn’t taste fresh to us. We certainly will opt for a different pasta preparation next time. House-made desserts were distinctive and made us very happy. Try the amaretto chocolate cookie surrounded by berries or the outrageous and opulent croissant bread pudding.
With colorful Tuscan landscape paintings adorning the walls, an open kitchen, and tables set with unusual curved plates, the ambiance is welcoming. The restaurant can get noisy when full, as there are tile floors and high ceilings. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations: 973-744-0200.
Melanzane Toscana: eggplant with plum tomato sauce, pecorino, and Italian basil.
Photo courtesy of Lowell Saferstein.
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GOURMET CAFE, PARSIPPANY
On the spur of the moment on a Saturday, we decided to return to the Gourmet Cafe, 136 Baldwin Road, Parsippany, as we had such a delightful experience when we last dined there, in the fall of 2011 (http://njmonthly.com/blogs/tablehopwithRosie/2011/11/16/restaurant-news.html). Dinner was just as delicious this time, and it’s easy to see why chef/owner Matthew Pierone has been pleasing diners since June 2007, when he purchased the restaurant.
We shared starters: two Parmesan risotto cakes filled with mozzarella and prosciutto and surrounded by tomato sauce, and not-too-bitter broccoli rabe with sweet Italian sausage. Lowell bypassed the fabulous pork chop he’d had previously and opted for a salmon special that came with spinach and roasted potatoes. The fish tasted extremely fresh, and since I kept digging my fork into it, Lowell switched plates and dug into my pasta with Bolognese sauce. Pasta Bolognese may be an Italian menu standard, but when done right, as it is here, it’s a most appealing dish. Friends had another standby, chicken parm, which was tender and flavorful, and a gut-busting dish of whole-wheat penne all’amatriciana, made with pancetta and onions in a red sauce. We were too full for dessert, but the house-made butterscotch bread pudding topped with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce sure sounded good. If you’re looking for a casual, neighborly type of restaurant with attentive service, reasonable prices, and delightful food, then add the Gourmet Cafe to your list. Reservations: 973-316-0088; BYO.
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URSINO, UNION
The lounge balcony, with views of the outdoor garden and pond area, and the garden patio are open at Ursino, Liberty Hall Campus of Kean University, 1075 Morris Avenue, Union. Lounge menu items include pizza, burgers, wood-fired mussels, artisanal cheese and charcuterie for two, and locally produced beer. Every Saturday in July, there’s a walking tour of Liberty Hall, the Colonial-era home of the Kean-Livingston family, and the four-acre farm for Ursino, followed by a four-course farmer’s tasting menu. 3 PM to approximately 7 PM; $75 plus tax and gratuity (not including beverages); wear appropriate shoes, as you will be walking through a working farm. Reservations: 908-249-4099.
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HUDSON RESTAURANT WEEK
Hudson Restaurant Week will be held July 23 through August 3, with participating restaurants offering discounted meals. Restaurants that will be partaking in this event include: Amanda’s, Dino & Harry’s, Edwards Steakhouse, Elysian Cafe, Liberty House, Maritime Parc, Pilsener Haus & Biergarten, Porto Leggero, Satis Bistro, and VB3. For updates, log on to www.hudsonrestaurantweek.com.
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DINING DEALS
David Burke Fromagerie, 26 Ridge Road, Rumson, is offering weekday promotions that are worth checking out. Tuesday is burger night, with an arugula salad, a burger, and beer or wine for $25. Wednesday features a lobster bake for $39, a lobster steak for $49, and a two-pound steamed lobster for $59; each includes a lobster appetizer. If you love steak, then dine at the restaurant on a Thursday night, with a three-course steak dinner (NY strip or prime rib) for $68, including an iceberg wedge salad, side dish, and dessert. Reservations: 732-842-8088.
Through August 31, Morton’s the Steakhouse, Riverside Square Mall, 1 Riverside Square, Hackensack, is offering a steak and seafood dinner for $59.99. The menu includes a choice of salad, filet mignon, a choice of seafood, potato or vegetable, and a choice of dessert. Reservations: 201-487-1303.
July 22 through 28, South Jersey Hot Chefs will be celebrating Farm to Fork Week with four-course menus using produce from local NJ farmers, for $35 or $25. For more information, log on to www.sjhotchefs.com.
Monday through Thursday evenings through Labor Day, Elements, 163 Bayard Lane, Princeton, will offer a three-course Farm to Fork menu for $39. Reservations: 609-924-0078.
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HIGH HEAT, NYC
If you find yourself hungry in New York City, try Waldy Malouf’s new pizza and burger joint, High Heat, at 154 Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village (212-300-4446). I usually don’t write about NYC because NJ rules, but we’ve tasted Waldy’s food, and it’s worth seeking out. The menu features wood-smoked thin-crust pizza; farm-stand salads; grilled Black Angus dry-aged beef burgers (steroid free, growth-hormone free, antibiotic free); wine and craft beers on tap; and something we’ve never seen—house-made sodas.
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THERE ARE TWO MORE IN THE KITSCHEN
Congratulations to Marilyn Schlossbach, owner of the Kitschens Hospitality Group (Langosta Lounge, Labrador Lounge, Trinity & the Pope, Dauphin Grille, Pop’s Garage), and her husband, Scott Szegeski, who are the proud new parents of twin girls. Hari Mar and Rubi Dee Szegeski were born on June 8.
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