CAFÉ MATISSE, RUTHERFORD
Platinum is the symbol for strength and permanence for a 20th anniversary and that is what executive chef Peter Loria, owner of Café Matisse, will be celebrating next year. It is very impressive when a restaurant has survived this long and still has a reputation for exemplary food and service. Expect to feast on artfully presented unique preparations of alluring food that contains perfect combinations of tastes and textures. After all, the restaurant is named after Matisse an artist known for his bold colors and shapes. Chef de cuisine is Christopher Boyce, also a talented chef who won Round 1 and Round 3 in the Chef Central Ultimate Chef of Bergen County competition.
During the week, an a la carte menu is offered with four sections all of which are about the same portion size: small plates, first course, second course and desserts. On Friday and Saturday evenings, there are three chef prix-fixe-inspired options for dinner: three-course ($68); four course ($88); or five course ($108), plus tax and gratuities.
We were at a mid-week press dinner and starters were a special of a lobster, white-bean bisque with crab-guacamole fritter and a whole-peppered succulent shrimp; and melted robiola cheese on garlic toast crostini, which topped two savory meatballs surrounded by a spicy marinara sauce. Following these, we had caramelized Brussels sprouts with cranberry relish, cranberry butter and toasted pumpkin seeds which was a brilliant combination of flavors as the cranberries offset the bitterness of the Brussels sprouts. The country salad containing baby arugula, olives, cucumber, carrot, celery, heirloom tomato, crumbled goat cheese, feta and arugula pesto had an interplay of flavors; we loved it. The chef’s deft hand was observed in the perfectly cooked chicken paillard, which can be easily ruined by overcooking, if the timing is not just right. Combined with chicken tortellini and broccoli rabe, this dish was united with a rich Gorgonzola cream sauce. Cabernet balsamic-glazed, beef short ribs with pumpkin-squash puree, caramelized Brussels sprouts, potato-fontina cheese fritter, toasted pumpkin seeds and an apple-cider vinaigrette sounds like a lot of ingredients, but this dish worked because of the contrasting, well-balanced flavors and tastes. Our meal was finished with a dramatic, exceptional cherry cheesecake with cherry-marshmallow crème, bing cherry candied-ginger jam and a caramelized banana—a most memorable meal.
Lobster white-bean bisque with crab-guacamole fritter and a whole peppered shrimp.
Not only is attention to details evident in the food but in the service: black napkins are presented and the table is crumbed after each course and before silverware is replaced. Multi-colored beaded chandeliers and fabric-covered chairs, as well as reproductions of Matisse’s work and fanciful walls painted in his style help to create a romantic ambiance. Be aware that the restaurant can get noisy when full. There is a stunning garden to view in the cold weather, or better yet, sit there in the summer when it is in full bloom. Matisse may have had a palette, but chef Loria has a palate, and we were so well fed because of it.
Dining room at Café Matisse.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
Cafe Matisse
167 Park Avenue
Rutherford
201-935-2995
BYO
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