Dress up or dress down at Jockey Hollow Bar & Kitchen in Morristown. There are four dining venues: The Vail Bar, The Oyster and Wine Bar, The Rathskeller (open on Friday and Saturday nights and also used as a private event space) and The Dining Room on the second floor, reached via a grand marble staircase. At a recent press dinner, we dined in the Dining Room, where the elegant and refined ambiance, food and service enthralled us. We dressed up, what fun, but diners were wearing everything from jeans to suits and ties. Come as you wish, and know that you will have a delightful dinner.
JOCKEY HOLLOW BAR & KITCHEN, MORRISTOWN
Attention is paid to the details here. Japanese-looking dishes held beautifully plated food, some of which looked like living sculptures. We ordered the wine pairing and each person’s dish, for each course, was paired with a different wine. Water was refilled, the table crumbed, and the staff was extremely knowledgeable. Kudos to executive chef Kevin Sippel, service director Steven Bloom, wine director Charles Prusik and bar director Christopher James (try his Brokers gin swizzle with cinnamon syrup, lime and mint); for running a first-class operation. Oh boy! We love this place.
When seated, to take the edge off of our hunger, stracciatella cheese in olive oil, pickled cremini mushrooms, pickled skate, and dried beef were served on a wooden board with bread. The menu changes every three or four days so, the items we ate may not be available.
A yellow saffron sauce that reminded us of spring was a base for the grilled octopus with sea beans, an oyster, tiny slices of potatoes and saffron vichyssoise. Presented in a large rimmed dish, this was a most striking presentation. An extremely fresh tasting yellowtail toro crudo with red radish, pickled ramps and white asparagus and a Mendham spring salad with a creamy burrata asparagus, fava beans and microgreens, both offered another taste of spring with the seasonal ingredients. Another starter was something we didn’t think we could get excited about, but went ga-ga for: creamy scrambled eggs which were unlike anything we have tasted before. They were presented with American caviar and a dill-seed cracker. White wines from California, Italy and Santorini, Greece were paired with the dishes.
Act two had some of our favorite dishes of the evening, and were strikingly presented with alluring flavors. A spring pea raviolini with carbonara sauce, pea tendrils, crab and speck that added texture, provided thoughtfully combined ingredients. A Gamberetto shrimp—that looked like it was on steroids—was served with spring garlic ciupin (cioppino made from the tomato and fish broth) and saffron remoulade. The duck liver agnolotti with fava beans, pecorino and mint gremolata reminded us of pasta stuffed with foie gras and was extravagant in a delicious way. A rosé from Italy, red from Greece and Pinot from New Zealand were poured for these courses. Of course, we were not only passing around the plates, but also passing around the glasses.
Fish, steak and chicken were ordered for our third course. Monkfish gave the impression of being in the sea because of the saltiness from the porchetta and seaweed nage. Ceci beans and grilled gem lettuces added color. An unusual and rich crème fraiche panna cotta, along with morels and a spring veloute enhanced an Arctic char, while juicy buttermilk spring chicken had all the right elements from a crispy skin, a poulet sauce and side of aromatic taleggio gnocchi. Roasted shibumi mushrooms with polenta crema, Parmigiano and chicken jus was topped with a dehydrated rice cracker; crunch and cream, an inspiring combination. Perfectly cooked dry-aged prime sirloin with Brussels sprouts and bone marrow au poivre was a steak lover’s dream. Red wines from France and Italy were presented.
The final act, dessert, consisted of chocolate-milk bread pudding with coffee, caramel and malted-milk ice cream; heirloom carrot and parsnip cake with milk chocolate semifreddo, carrot sorbet and sesame brittle; steamed toffee pudding with roasted banana and coconut sorbet; and a pine-nut tart with honey anglaise and pineapple-tarragon sorbet. We appreciated that the preceding courses were small, but adequate, and we were not uncomfortably stuffed and able to enjoy these sweet endings. Dessert wines from France were poured.
While a dinner at the Dining Room at Jockey Hollow is special, if you wish to “up the experience,” consider reserving the Chef’s Table for two located in the kitchen, where diners can determine the menu that they want. Sit at the butcher block, glass-topped table, amidst beautiful surroundings, including a fireplace, and watch the chefs working. It promises to be a special evening and the table is yours for the night.
Jockey Hollow is such a welcome addition to the New Jersey dining scene. Owner Chris Cannon could not have brought together a more talented group. Casual, fancy, contemporary or classic. You will find farm-to-table dining here amid a gorgeous venue. Jockey Hollow impresses.
For more information on the dining venues at Jockey Hollow, visit their website.
Jockey Hollow Bar & Kitchen
110 South Street
Morristown
973-644-3180
Brokers gin swizzle.
Mendham spring salad with a creamy burrata, asparagus, fava beans and microgreens.
Scrambled eggs with American caviar and a dill seed cracker.
Duck liver agnolotti with fava beans, pecorino and mint gremolata
Heirloom carrot and parsnip cake with milk chocolate semifreddo, carrot sorbet and sesame brittle.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein
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