Food for Thought

On Fridays, Rosie serves a mixed stew of NJ food and dining information. Today, read about Le Salbuen in Montclair.

LE SALBUEN, MONTCLAIR
Be sure to peek around the small spaces as antiques and whimsical knick-knacks are artfully placed throughout this inviting 620-square-foot farm-to-table bistro featuring organic food. Also check out the list of farms and suppliers, where the ingredients are sourced, written on an antique mirror. There is a tin ceiling, brick walls, hardwood floors, an open kitchen, shelves filled with everything from jars of honey, spices, books, old Coke bottles and a copy of February 2014 New Jersey Monthly, the breakfast issue in which the restaurant was listed as one of the most mouth-watering breakfast spots in North Jersey. Beautiful etched wine glasses, dish-towel napkins and a vase with a sprig of rosemary all add to the ambiance. Christina and John Salierno are the executive chefs and owners, and they named their restaurant by combining SAL, the beginning of their last name and BUEN, Christina’s maiden name.

Four appetizers were shared. The two that can be recommended are the duck taco with house-pickled purple cabbage and onion, topped with a tangy, organic lemon aioli; and a finely chopped raw kale salad with caramelized pumpkin seeds adding crunch and cider Parisian carrots adding sweetness. Chicken wings would have been preferable to the maple-glazed duck wings, which had little meat on them. The foie gras served in an iron skillet, was a colorful presentation with spinach and a slightly cooked egg, but was too oily.

Thick and chewy fresh pappardelle with a mushroom medley and a quail egg was earthy and was enjoyed. The vegetable fried brown rice, which accompanied wild salmon, was chock-full of onions, zucchini, mushrooms and string beans and could have stood on its own as a vegetarian entrée. We enjoyed the rice much more than the avocado oil, pan-seared salmon, as the flavor from the avocado oil had an off taste. The organic Portuguese flan was thicker than we are used to but acceptable, while the chocolate mousse had a gritty taste.

Breakfast and lunch, Tuesday through Saturday, 9 AM to 3:30 PM; dinner, Tuesday through Friday, 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday and Monday. Le Salbuen seats about 20 people, so be sure to make a reservation.


Foie gras with spinach and an egg.


Pan-seared salmon.
Photos courtesy of Lowell Saferstein

Le Salbuen
97 Walnut Street
Montclair, NJ 07042
201-622-8473
BYO
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